Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Sweet and Innocent
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in The Goose
|
Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Batman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Big Bruce S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Deserted Cities of the Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
East Face / Goose T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Golden Goat S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
Loosey Goosey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
|
|
Love's Labor Lost S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Mother Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Raging Bull (aka Cub) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Skein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Sweet and Innocent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Wild Horses T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | J. Schavone & D. Hare, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,690 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route may only have one crux, but it has several places worthy of thinking over, and it may be VERY hard for short people.
Start off of a rocky ledge accessed from the SW corner of the Goose or from below, via some chossy scrambling. Either way, mind the loose rock. Traverse out right to the base of a shallow, right-facing corner with a crack just left of it for about 1/2 of its length. Climb up the corner with a few small cams or nuts to start, and quickly gain a small ledge below a shallow 2" crack in the corner. Protect this on a 0.75 Camalot or #2 Friend and pull the first crux, a lieback off of a foot near the corner. This is ~5.10a if you are 5'10". If shorter, it could be quite a bit harder, as the foot will be gone before the next hand is reached....
Continue above this on a higher mantle protected still by the same piece (now 8' down) to another reachy move...then get more gear.
Continue up either the crack left of the corner or up the corner, being 2 meters apart, you can't reach both. The left side looked harder and in places lacked protection (sustained 5.9, PG-13) After another 40', the crack on the left ends, and you will step right if you have been climbing on that side. Continue up to the end of the corner and look up at a seam with a brief 2" pod in it. Climb up over the top of the dihedral, now ~40 meters up and if you must, bail down and right to 2 bolts where from you can rap with 2 ropes... .
Or continue up to the pod on sidepulls and place a cam in it (#0.75 Camalot or #2 Friend). Swing right around the lip of the bulge (reachy, cruxy, perhaps hard for 5.10a even if tall) and pull over the top. If someone super-sized the holds on Kloeberdanz in Eldo, it would feel like this. Continue up and right on cracks past a lot of lichen and another bulge (or perhaps directly up the cleaner face above?), and join the ramp of the South Face after a total of 160'. Climb 50' additional on the ramp to the shelf below the true summit and the 2-bolts with coldshuts to belay. A 70m rope makes this easily into 1 pitch, but a 60m would be dubious, and the route is not well suited to simul-climbing.
Start off of a rocky ledge accessed from the SW corner of the Goose or from below, via some chossy scrambling. Either way, mind the loose rock. Traverse out right to the base of a shallow, right-facing corner with a crack just left of it for about 1/2 of its length. Climb up the corner with a few small cams or nuts to start, and quickly gain a small ledge below a shallow 2" crack in the corner. Protect this on a 0.75 Camalot or #2 Friend and pull the first crux, a lieback off of a foot near the corner. This is ~5.10a if you are 5'10". If shorter, it could be quite a bit harder, as the foot will be gone before the next hand is reached....
Continue above this on a higher mantle protected still by the same piece (now 8' down) to another reachy move...then get more gear.
Continue up either the crack left of the corner or up the corner, being 2 meters apart, you can't reach both. The left side looked harder and in places lacked protection (sustained 5.9, PG-13) After another 40', the crack on the left ends, and you will step right if you have been climbing on that side. Continue up to the end of the corner and look up at a seam with a brief 2" pod in it. Climb up over the top of the dihedral, now ~40 meters up and if you must, bail down and right to 2 bolts where from you can rap with 2 ropes... .
Or continue up to the pod on sidepulls and place a cam in it (#0.75 Camalot or #2 Friend). Swing right around the lip of the bulge (reachy, cruxy, perhaps hard for 5.10a even if tall) and pull over the top. If someone super-sized the holds on Kloeberdanz in Eldo, it would feel like this. Continue up and right on cracks past a lot of lichen and another bulge (or perhaps directly up the cleaner face above?), and join the ramp of the South Face after a total of 160'. Climb 50' additional on the ramp to the shelf below the true summit and the 2-bolts with coldshuts to belay. A 70m rope makes this easily into 1 pitch, but a 60m would be dubious, and the route is not well suited to simul-climbing.
Location
High on the South Face of the Goose, just right of the several sport routes just east of the Summit, this is the left-facing dihedral starting on a rocky ledge.
Protection
A standard light rack, with two #2 Friends- 2 cruxes are protected by them.... Take some 2' slings for deviations in the path.
This is sweet but far from innocent. The gear is acceptable but not everywhere and not always straightforward. A fall could present a hazard for a non-technician.
This is sweet but far from innocent. The gear is acceptable but not everywhere and not always straightforward. A fall could present a hazard for a non-technician.
2 Comments