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All Locations >
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
The Prow
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.1 from 60
votes
Routes in 4. Third Buttress
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Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Antofil S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Boffedes V6 7A |
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Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Coloring Book S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Flying T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Line of Demarcation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moselstraße S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powerbar Power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Raggin' Tail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shaken Not Stirred S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tita S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wanderer, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson |
| Page Views: | 2,824 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Nov 22, 2009 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Start by making a couple bouldery moves to gain the long slab. Continue up the slab over the occasional loose block. As the route turns vertical at about the half way point, the climb really begins. At this point, climb up using some strange holds to reach the 1st overhang. When you are pulling the 1st overhang and clipping the bolt at the lip, a few of the key holds move, but they appear to be captured. Continue up and a bit left (optional gear here). Now the hard stuff begins. Make a long reach to a small hold, aiming for the giant protrusion. Rock up on to that and reach up into horizontal below the final overhang. Traverse a bit right and then straight up to the shuts. The climbing over the last 3 bolts is amazing and surely where the 5.12b rating comes from. This route would be very popular if it began at the upper overhanging prow section. 60M rope required.
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