Places to practice aid near Sacramento

Hey all,
Looking to do a by of aid practice and didnt know if you guys had suggestions for some bolt ladders or some good seams for clean aid practice in the Sacramento area.

Thanks in advance,
Trevor

Potentially places that I could fix a rope and do some TR solo practice too. Thanks again

Cosumnes River Gorge (near Placerville), 10-minute crack should be a clean aid seam. Not sure if there are ladders, probably, I'm not an aid guy so I don't look for those opportunities.

You could screw around at Mosquito Coast (again, near Placerville), they are short but pretty continuous cracks. If you could TR solo or toprope them after, you'd get a good workout all the way around.

Other than that, Sugarloaf certainly has options, though you are more likely to run into non-appreciative crowds if you're clogging up classics on the weekend. I'm thinking Captain Fingers would be good clean aid? Certainly The Grand Illusion would be ripe and is aided not so infrequently. You can go up to the top and rap into The Grand Illusion.

Didn't even think of 10 minute crack. I didn't want to clog up some of the other routes at cosumnes, so Thanks for the advice!

I've never been to mosquito either. I'll have to check it out. Fairly easily to set TR on some of them?

I've aided the Fracture, Farley, and Taurus at Sugarloaf (obviously not when there are other people around as they are pretty popular), but they required either leading or getting to the anchors after leading another route. Grand illusion would be a good choice too, but probably hard to TR without lots of directionals.

violetteta8 wrote:Didn't even think of 10 minute crack. I didn't want to clog up some of the other routes at cosumnes, so Thanks for the advice! I've never been to mosquito either. I'll have to check it out. Fairly easily to set TR on some of them?

No problems.

Maybe even that so-called Iraqi Dihedral across the river if water is low?

Mosquito Coast is super easy to set a TR on. You drop down from the bridge to a spacious ledge. You'd probably want to check out what you are on from below first. Cracks largely in the 5.10-5.11 range.

Twist and Shout (5.10c) will throw a lot of variety at you, definitely burly.

A little scramble can put you on Ant Line that's just up river, though it is only about 25' of climbing.

sugarloaf is the best for solo aid climbing.
pony express, farley,
hyperspsce, fracture!!

all decently easy C1 aid!

go get it!!!

gizzard

I spent some time in Placer County as a kid are any of the many old granite quarries good for this?

Thanks for all the input guys!