Red Shirt

This is a reasonable low-end, moderate route that features some adventure, some route finding challenges, and some loose rock. Its limited technical difficulties & less-than-vertical rock will help acquaint the novice to the cliff, but the loose rock and traversing might leave some grumbling. This, pioneered by Greenwood, Kahl and Lofthouse in 1962, was one of the earliest routes to go to the top. Also, this route is a bit infamous for the disproportionate number of injuries and fatality(ies). A full description may be found in the excellent, "Yamnusk Rock" climbing guide by Andy Generaux. Since the publication of the latest guide book retrofitting efforts have changed the layout of the fixed hardware on the route - see marked up topo photo. 

P1. Follow a small corner, traverse L to a broken pillar. Ascend the pillar. Go past a ledge to the base of a chimney and belay. The rock seemed a bit slick. ~40m. 5.7.

P2. Go up the chimney passing 3 bolts, and step left onto blocky terrain at the top of the rock rib. Look to the right for a fixed belay (2 bolts) on a nice ledge. It feels a bit slick in the chimney. ~30m. 5.8.

P3. Head up and left generally staying in the big corner. Near the top the corner pinches into a chimney feature, where you can stand no-hands on a ledge at the bottom. You can gear belay in the chimney, or step left around the arete, and traverse to a fixed anchor (2 bolts with quick links, tied together with cord. If you went up the chimney and the crack above you looks harder than 5.7, look down and to your left) above a small pedestal. 5.7, ~35m. Note, a redirect for your follower is considerate here - a small piece (0.2-0.5) and a sling helps. 

P4. This is an interesting pitch. Lead slightly down & left (~7 m) to a belay with 2 bolts on a small ledge. This pitch may excite your second. Lowering out seems like a much easier and safer option for the second. 

P5. Step down and left off the belay to reach a weakness, and then climb up to a bolt (alpine draw). Climb hard left past 2 more bolts (alpine draws, skip the pin, the 3rd bolt will come into view in one more move), before stepping down and making a move up onto a ledge/ramp. Continue along the ledge to a left facing corner with a pair of pins at the base, scramble up the corner to a comfortable ledge with a 2-bolt belay. Put a bit of gear in to protect your follower. 5.7, ~25 m. 

P6. Go left and up an obvious chimney to a crack to a good ledge with a big block on it. The Genereux book has a belay here (in the corner behind the block), looks like it would be gear. 5.6, ~30 m

P7. This is a really fun pitch. Climb the left wall up past some pins, and then scramble up the corner on your right. As the rock transitions to yellow and gets steeper, step right, around the right edge of  low angle dihedral/corner that you have been cruising, to gain a right facing corner. Look up and left for a pin. Continue up to clear the steeper terrain; as you come up onto a pseudo-ledge, look ~10m up and right for a pair of bolts. This is your 2-bolt belay, shared with "Dreambed" at the top of a pillar. A redirect with a finger sized cam (0.4) is available before you traverse over. 5.6, ~45 m

P8. Traverse right, past two pitons to the base of a shattered pillar (ignore the bolt above, it is for the last pitch of the climb Dreambed'). Make an airy move around this pillar, climb up and right on loose blocky rocks until it is easier to continue straight up, past a fixed piton and eventually up a shallow groove/corner to the top. Find a comfortable place to belay (no fixed anchor, hand crack, tree, bodyweight). 5.6, ~25 m.

Descent: Walk off around the back side of the cliff. It's probably best to not leave anything at the base of the climb, so that you don't have to go back up to the base of the cliff.