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> Squamish
> Mamquam FSR
> Top Shelf
Made From Fire
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 20
votes
Routes in Top Shelf
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Allright for Me T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Baby Beluga T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bob's Your Uncle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boondock Saints T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crouching Liger T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cursed Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cursing All The Way S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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David Hasselhoffwidth T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deep Blue Sea T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Demon Days T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Demon Sweat T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Ectopic Beats T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Eye Catcher T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Full Slotter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hand Slotter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Headbangers in Leather T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Innocuous T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kitten Fists T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Korova Milk Bar, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Ludovico Technique T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Made From Fire T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Maker's Mark T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Meltdown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Miasmic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Persistance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shock Collars for Christmas T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Struggle Not T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trippett Out T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,443 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Stevens on Jul 22, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: FSR TEMPORARY CLOSURE
Details
Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…
Stawamus/ Indian River FSR 4823
- September 15 - November 15, 2022 - Road closed due to major bridge replacement at 1km. Closure will also restrict access to Shannon branch road
- 4WD access only; seasonally deactivated
- Shannon branch 4823.2 (to Stawamus Chief) of Stawamus/ Indian
- 4WD access only
- Active industrial operations, use caution. Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no road access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles will be available at the 4.2km location.
- Inquiries regarding the Sea to Sky Gondola should be directed to the licensee Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This climb is super bad! I mean that in the way that Michael Jackson was Bad. Essentially a harder, and better version of the nearby "Meltdown". The route follows a twin crack system, but the right "crack" is more of just a flare and only usable in a few spots. Make a hard move off the ground and get some good locks and thin, flaring hand jams to a tough move off of a pinch to gain a sloping ledge. Move left on jugs and get a good rest below the thin crack. Place some high pieces and punch it through 20 feet of technical and insecure climbing. Fancy footwork is key to success here as the locks are not that great. Figure out the sequence that works for you and hit the "thank god" hand jam! Some pumpy, 5.9 jamming gets you to the anchors.
This felt quite a bit harder to me than Sentry Box, but that's just, like, you know, my opinion.
This felt quite a bit harder to me than Sentry Box, but that's just, like, you know, my opinion.
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