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> Upper Town Wall
> (g1) Upper Cheeks
> (b) The Black Sea
Black Sea
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 11
votes
Routes in (b) The Black Sea
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A Turtle too Far S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Sea T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dead Mans Reach T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Echolocation S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gods Bones S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Thomas Ramier |
| Page Views: | 3,604 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Thomas Ramier on May 12, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
P1
It is best to pre-clip the first bolt then start climbing from the right at an under cling. Follow bolts, a few small cams and a fixed 1/2" rod behind a flake. Climb up and right for more bolts, multiple small cruxes and a short layback up an arete past a few good cams to a few more bolts and a final difficult move just before the anchors.
P2
Goes straight up the corner then steps left passing a bolt to gain another corner/Arete. Climb Arete and face past some huge knobs then head left past two more bolts through a steep bulge then up a corner to the belay. A short dirty third pitch can be lead to gain the summit. There is a bolted rappel about 5m to the right of the top out or Rap back down the route from here.
It is best to pre-clip the first bolt then start climbing from the right at an under cling. Follow bolts, a few small cams and a fixed 1/2" rod behind a flake. Climb up and right for more bolts, multiple small cruxes and a short layback up an arete past a few good cams to a few more bolts and a final difficult move just before the anchors.
P2
Goes straight up the corner then steps left passing a bolt to gain another corner/Arete. Climb Arete and face past some huge knobs then head left past two more bolts through a steep bulge then up a corner to the belay. A short dirty third pitch can be lead to gain the summit. There is a bolted rappel about 5m to the right of the top out or Rap back down the route from here.
Location
Climb up from just inside the "cave" onto the top of the huge detached block above Ted, Ted Nugent. There is a bolted belay.
The route can be rappelled with one 70m from the first or second belay. Be very careful returning to the Perverse Traverse as the wall is undercut and you must maintain a swing to get back to the ledge. Tie knots!
The route can be rappelled with one 70m from the first or second belay. Be very careful returning to the Perverse Traverse as the wall is undercut and you must maintain a swing to get back to the ledge. Tie knots!
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