Don Ferris wrote:Everybody, and I do mean everybody, should start with all passive pro. Buy a set of nuts, a set of offset nuts, slung hexes, and tricams. That will get you through 99% of what you are capable leading pretty safely.
Best suggestion so far. Learn how to use passive gear and you won't end up relying on cams in manky placements.
And you don't need some guide to teach you lead with a rack. Find climbs, preferably cracks, that are within your abilities that have a "G" rating. You should be able to figure out how to place the gear. It's not that compiclated really. After you've gotten the hang of it, you can supplement your rack with cams.
Also get enough longer slings so you can avoid rope drag. I use 2 foot slings tripled and open them up and or sling them together when I need them. Extra biners are a big plus too.
A rack is free if you don't got out to a bar for a month. You will get much enjoyment from the rack in the future, the missed bar time will not be noticed.
Rick Blair wrote:A rack is free if you don't got out to a bar for a month. You will get much enjoyment from the rack in the future, the missed bar time will not be noticed.
Story of my life dude.
r m
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Oct 18, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2015
· Points: 0
I found a bolt and bouldering mentor, but never a trad mentor.
Aiding on (solo, if you like) top rope is a pretty good ticket to safely learning to place gear. I can't think of a better way to learn.
Rack wise if I could talk to my past self I would say, in this order over a period of time: - Set of DMM wallnuts + regular totem cams - BD C4 sizes 2+3 - Pink or red tricam, depending on mood - DMM allow offsets
I started leading a couple years ago. My best advice is as follows: -Find experienced trad leaders to climb with. The more, the better. You'll take take methods, tips and tricks from every leader you climb with. You also might also find you learn better from one person vs. Another. -Follow, follow, follow. Did I say, follow? Follow routes, Damn it! -Read everything you can on placements. The John long /Bob Gaines book is good. -Be nice to your trad mentors. Buy them food, beer, etc. Taking on a newbie is sometimes frustrating. Rack advice: -Try other people's gear if possible. See what you like before you buy. -Starter pro, (Opinion). Single set Totem cams(not basics) blue-red<--Totems are awesome. C4 red - gray Single set, BD stoppers.
I could keep going on for days. But, I'll stop here.
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