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How do you meet other alpine climbers?

Original Post
Sean Kolk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 35

Hey oh.

I'm interested in getting into alpine routes (cathedral, lone pine peak, Conness, Carl Heller, would like to aim for the mt. Sill traverse by next year and am looking at some mixed ski/climbs in Banff this winter.)

I Live in SF, and climb a Mission Cliffs, but most people seem to be craggers (and it's been surprisingly difficult meeting people in gyms- maybe I just suck at talking)

Curious if anyone has meetups, or groups, or idk trip planning nights.
-Sean!

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
Sean Kolk wrote:Hey oh. I'm interested in getting into alpine routes (cathedral, lone pine peak, Conness, Carl Heller, would like to aim for the mt. Sill traverse by next year and am looking at some mixed ski/climbs in Banff this winter.) I Live in SF, and climb a Mission Cliffs, but most people seem to be craggers (and it's been surprisingly difficult meeting people in gyms- maybe I just suck at talking) Curious if anyone has meetups, or groups, or idk trip planning nights. -Sean!
Post on Gociety ;)

...In addition to that, and as you know, alpine climbing requires a heck of a lot more partner-dynamics than a day of local cragging or multi-pitching. More than complete and utter trust in your partner (to safely and competently complete all technical related mountain skills), I'd recommend they be fit, have a good sense of humor and a 5-star attitude. (There is only type 1 fun; 2/3 do not exist)

I wouldn't want to spend 12-60 hours in the mountains with someone who didn't have the above qualities, and it's tough to determine that before the fact. I'd recommend going on a modifiable multipitch outing with someone you think might be psyched to get in the alpine as well. Do a few routes, see how things are going, then do some more. Get a full day in and see if they are stoked for more. If you notice them getting tired, frustrated, un-psyched and pleading to call it a day - It might be time for you to look elsewhere.

There's obviously a whole lot more that goes into alpine climbing (depending on the objective), but mental and physical endurance as well as an overall positive attitude are major qualities I look for in a solid partner and you can find these qualities without having to be man-spooning on a hanging shiver-bivy consisting of 2 rusted knifeblades and a bottomed out stubby 20 hours into a 45 hour day.

Good luck with your search,

J
kevin graves · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 5

Check out rowcc.com. We're based all over SoCal but meetup in the Sierras all summer long. Official trips; July Rock Creek; mostly Patricia Bowl and Iris Slabs but some may be doing Bear Creek Spire. August; Tuolumne Meadows with ascents all over the park including Tenaya Peak, Fairview Dome and Conness. September is the Needles trip. Unofficial trips; July; Feather Peak, Merriam Peak, August Feather Peak, North Peak, September Palisades. We have 12 trips per year with campgrounds reserved for 11 trips. We climb at Lee Vining, Sierras, Ouray and even the Cascades. Check out the website; rowcc.com. Kevin weclimb@gmail.com

Sean Kolk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 35

J -

agreed it is a 'commitment factor,' where cragging with a group allows for more personal space.
One issue with posting on sites is that, it's hard to do a shake down, hence- meeting for beer before, or at a gym (and seeing what they climb).

ty for the lead though!
-s

Sean Kolk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 35

Thanks Kevin, I'll look into it.
do you guys interact with the SMC ?
-s

Steve Marshall · · Concord NH · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45
J Antin wrote: man-spooning on a hanging shiver-bivy
poetry
kevin graves · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 5

No actually I wasn't aware of them but looks like a good program. Both SCM and SCMA are way more structured and organized than we are. My climbing buddy and I were "purged" out of SCMA; a fact we are proud of to this day. Our motto after all is, "A drinking club with a climbing problem." We don't have courses; you'll learn plenty just climbing with us. We don't have committees, boards or tests. We charge $40.00 per year for campsites and for our annual blow out party, "the rendezvous". We ride share and do one trip per month formally and about 2 others informally. I've climbed in places I never knew about because of the club and Pat Brennan's infamous XX Climb Awards. Checking out both is probably a good approach. Once you find 3-4 guys that you trust to climb with; you're golden anyway. The rest is just good times with like minded people. Come join us at Rock Creek on July 18-19; climb some Alpine Granite at Patricia Bowl or head up to Crystal Crag. No charge and we'll buy your beer !

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

J: "man-spooning on a hanging shiver-bivy "

Agreed, sheer poetry. This one knows the game.

WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

It comes down to finding someone who treats suffering like an amusement park. I love alpine climbing and have/have had, trouble finding partners. Try living in the least populated state in the country and finding regular partners!

Steven T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 198

Tinder

EJoe · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 90
Steven Tata wrote:Tinder
nailed it
other · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 15

Kevin Graves, why were you purged from SCMA? Whats SCM/SMC?

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

Well there a few ways to go about this. The easiest way for me is to find routes that I can solo. I started doing this in August and I can tell you that many of the best alpine climbs are third and fourth class. Once I am fast enough to keep up with the "cool kids" I'll start doing more challenging alpine routes with my local community. The next easy way to get alpine partners for the High Sierra is move to the Eastside like I did.

kevin graves · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 5

to other: SCMA is the southern california mountaineering association; formally purged because we didn't attend their outings per their schedule. I don't think they do this anymore. We were not allowed to lead (we had both been leading for 15-20 years) on outings even after passing their escape the belay test. I'm sure they are a good group (original Sierra Club Climbing Section) but far too structured with too many rules for my taste. I ended up with several climbing partners and our local group (www.rowcc.com) was just fun! Rim of the World Climbing Club has exposed me to many new areas including Calaveras Dome, Cochise, Palisades, Langley and the Whitney Portal; along with Owens Ridge, Owens River Gorge, Elephant's Head, Mt Lemmon, Granite Mtn and many bouldering areas both local and in the high desert. I've learned to bolt responsibly, learned some self rescue, climbed a few easy walls; all because of the ROWCC.

other · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 15

Were you also referring to SMC / Sierra Mountaineering Club? Were you not able to achieve "regular member" status in SCMA because it was impossible to line up evaluations? That's what I found. Interestingly an SCMA member was in a Climb Smart beginner seminar class. Thats after going through the safety test and being evaluated. They were also unable to use a gri gri which I found odd.

other · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 15

Apparently SMC even sportclimbg at new jack city Barstow requires:
HOW SELECTIONS WORK: A few weeks prior to the outing, the leaders will select team members
based on relevant experience, skill level, fitness, and teamwork, while keeping an eye toward
achieving a balanced mix of individuals. Those that are selected will be notified via email. Out of
courtesy, if you are unable to attend, please notify the outing leader as soon as possible. You can
check the status of your attendance on the event posting on both websites.
If you experience difficulties during the registration process, please send an email to our
webmaster at tech@smc.club

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

REQUIRED CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND GEAR
CLOTHING

• Wicking, breathable base layer, top and bottom
• Insulating, weather-resistant mid layer, top and bottom
• Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom
• Insulating fill or down belay jacket
• Socks, liners
• Gloves or mittens
• Sunglasses
• Warm hat and/or balaclava
• Sun hat or covering

EQUIPMENT
• Backpack
• Food, snacks and drinks
• Sunscreen and lip balm
• Small personal first aid kit
• Toiletries, Personal items, medications, etc.
• Optional items for consideration: camera, small knife or multi-tool, bandana

CLIMBING GEAR*
• Climbing shoes
• Harness
• Hard shell climbing helmet
• 2 locking and one non-locking carabiner
• 48" sewn sling
• Loop of 5mm cord
• Belay device

  • If you are without some of this important safety gear, it may be available for loan upon prior
request, first-come, first serve.
Sean Kolk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 35

I just realized I had my email blocking MP messages - so sorry for anyone who messaged me.

since I've posted this, I started my own meet up ( The Adventure Report- we have three people present once a month, then just meet/eat/drink and plan bigger trips), along with a email list to post outings (more than just climbing) - and found people through gociety/caving groups (grottos) /going to movies.

I've found that climbing in the SF Bay area is mix between gym rats and weekend warriors who drive 5-7 hours one way a weekend (which my girlfriend and I have become).

I also learned climbing the north arete on bear creek spire, that you shouldn't take new partners on routes that you're not comfortable with, before you climb together (which is what makes meeting people online difficult, or at least time consuming withe the vetting)

Thanks everybody for their comments/advice.
SMC/the other official groups give some great outlines, but when it comes down to it, for me, it seems too ridged to go on 8 person trips with fixed credentials. I enjoy groups of 4 (or maybe camp with lots of people, then go off in our own pod).

Hope everyone had a good season. If you'r in the bay, send me a message, would love to get a beer/ or meet up!

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
Sean Kolk wrote:... Hope everyone had a good season. If you'r in the bay, send me a message, would love to get a beer/ or meet up!
"Had"? Alpine season is just starting!! ;)
WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

How To Attract an Alpine Partner:

Post for a romantically platonic climbing adventure on a day of 80% chance of rain/snow.

Menu:
Gel shots
frozen cliff bar
summit snickers

requirements:
Must be comfortable with crotch to face interaction
Must be okay with big or little spoon, unless previously agreed upon
Similar size clothing and shoes is a plus

If you haven't killed set partner at days end, you're destined for at least one more outing.
If you end up Big/Little spooning, you've found your partner for life

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Awesome Wade. So true!

Sean Kolk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 35
J Antin wrote: "Had"? Alpine season is just starting!! ;)
Ski mountaineering just started!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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