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What's the best carabiner to use with belay devices?

Original Post
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

I do mostly top rope climbing alone, just interested if is a better carabiner to use.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Wolverine wrote:I do mostly top rope climbing alone, just interested if is a better carabiner to use.
"Top-rope climbing alone"? What are you using your belay device for in that situation? Are you using it to ascend the rope?

Anyway, any large, pear-shaped locker will suffice for most belay devices.
Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Hey Wolverine, never sure whether you are just trolling or are sincere, but...i get the idea you are reaching out, so...
What belay device? Are you looking for more friction in an ATC, or easier loading in a gri-gri? And what are you using for toprope self belay? ANd do you really boulder V6 but only follow 5.9? REALLY?

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

Ok let me try to explaine first yo don't want to know watch I'm doing because even myself I got no clue, anyway I got a grigri and I just stick the rope on the top and wile I going up, well that is my security, I will like to know if there is some other device to go up better without to much friction on the rope, is that clear, I hope so.. Thanks

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

I'm not a master on grades either but I'm pretty strong on builders, I mean short hard ways...since where I live most of the boulders have never bean climb is for me hard to know what grade are, I may start to study how..

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Wolverine wrote:Ok let me try to explaine first yo don't want to know watch I'm doing because even myself I got no clue, anyway I got a grigri and I just stick the rope on the top and wile I going up, well that is my security, I will like to know if there is some other device to go up better without to much friction on the rope, is that clear, I hope so.. Thanks
Wolverine:

There have been many threads about TR soloing and what is the best setup. Use the search function to find these. Try searching the words "TR solo."

I'll start. I use two mini-traxions from Petzl. They don't make those anymore, but the replacement "Micro-traxions" are supposed to be better. I don't think Petzl endorses these devices for TR soloing.

Almost anything will be better than TR soloing with a Gri-Gri or a Cinch for less friction. Having to stop and pull the slack through your device is a real pain.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
FrankPS wrote: Almost anything will be better than TR soloing with a Gri-Gri or a Cinch for less friction. Having to stop and pull the slack through your device is a real pain.
most folks I know including myself never pull rope through the gri gri if its loosely attached to the pack at the base. works great on routes that dont wander much.
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Muscrat wrote: ANd do you really boulder V6 but only follow 5.9? REALLY?
I once knew someone who has redpointed V12 but bailed on a 5.9 sport climb and failed to pull the crux of a 5.10c on TR.

Anyway, to answer the question, if using a plate belay device like an ATC, use an HMS carabiner (aka parabiner). If using a locking belay device, use a standard locking D carabiner.

This explains the differences: gearx.com/blog/knowledge/cl…
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
20 kN wrote: I once knew someone who has redpointed V12 but bailed on a 5.9 sport climb and failed to pull the crux of a 5.10c on TR.
nobody redpoints boulders man, they send that shit.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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