Best Sport Climbs in NH/ME
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I've been clipping bolts a lot this year and am hoping to find another sport project (or two) to work on before winter sets in. Mid-12 or 12+ range would be ideal, but I'd hit my head against 13- as well. |
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eyeless in gaza- sundown |
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Great route! Though I've repeated it ad nauseam this year. I can't seem to walk by and not climb it when I'm at Sundown |
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Tsunami? I've never been on it but it comes highly recommended. Also seems less disjointed as most Rumney .12's. |
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Great idea! I've only ever seen one person trying it, but I don't go out to Waimea very much. That roof is such an inauspicious feature. I'll definitely give that a shot next time I'm there! |
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Phil S wrote:That roof is such an inauspicious feature. I'll definitely give that a shot next time I'm there!Indeed! Good luck and have fun. |
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What have you done in that grade range already? It would help to know what not to recommend. |
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Phil! |
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How about Sundog Wall at Fletcher Bluff in Maine? Never climbed there but I believe there are some steep 12s up there. Farley in MA could also keep you busy for a few days |
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Rob DeBruyn wrote:What have you done in that grade range already? It would help to know what not to recommend. I know you said you're not too inspired by Rumney, what in particular don't you like? Flying Monkeys (12c) and Dynosoar (13a) both fit your bill of steep and sustained. Have you done Ginseng at Shagg? That thing is pretty darn fun. Edited to add Giant Man (12b/c) to the list of awesome steep continuous lines at Rumney. Plus, that one gets you up and away from all the crowds lower on the mountain, if that's part of what turns you off.Thanks for the suggestions Rob! I've had a nagging shoulder injury that did not feel so great, for whatever reason, when I tried Flying Monkeys a while back. Not sure if it was the movement or just a bad day. I should definitely think about trying that again. Dynosoar looks great as well- have never tried that. Did Ginseng this summer and thought it was fantastic. Same with Giant Man. I don't have a huge problem with the Rumney crowds, I just enjoy the climbing at Shagg/Evans Notch crags a lot more. Different strokes, I guess. Chris Duca wrote:Phil! Get yourself on Big Kahuna, Giant Man, and Whip Tide...then meet me in the Gunks!Aye, aye! Let's line something up! JD1984 wrote:How about Sundog Wall at Fletcher Bluff in Maine? Never climbed there but I believe there are some steep 12s up there. Farley in MA could also keep you busy for a few daysI have not heard a lot about the Bangor area crags- looks like some really nice climbing out there! I've also been meaning to check out Farley. I know next to nothing about it, but it sounds like there's a ton to do there. Thanks for the suggestion! |
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Mormon Hollow near Farley has some nice hard routes as well.... Priapism is supposed to be one of the state's best 12a routes. Couple of 13s there too... western MA has a bunch of hidden gems... get in touch with WMCC as most areas are not documented due to landowner wishes |
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Would suggest wild rumpus at shell pond |
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june m wrote:Would suggest wild rumpus at shell pondDid that this summer as well. Loved it. Also did Two Nuts for You this weekend, which I liked even more! Getting into the roofs at the top makes for a spectacular situation |
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There is a lot of nice climbing in the bangor area but it tends to be slabby/thin face |
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The 5.10 wall at Owls is thin and technical vertical face climbing on small edges. It is good climbing, but definitely not steep jug hauling if that is what you are looking for. The routes are quality and worth the effort if you like that style, but with the approach, lack of much for good warm-ups etc, you have to bring a bit of grit. The days are getting a little short, but if you get a sunny fall morning the conditions can be ideal as it catches the morning sun. |
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Just some random possibilities at Rumney - Restless Native (tho it has a rest), Hope for Movement, and Good Earth. How about The Premium? |
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The Premium is excellent, and a pretty stiff, technical and enduro C IMO, even though it has a rest ledge in the middle. The top could use a little brushing last I was on it earlier this year. When your rope is hanging from the top anchor you realize just how steep it is. It hits the ground about 30 ft out. Thanks for reminding me Soon. I wanted to get back and give it a scrub and climb it this season. Maybe before I get sucked into spending prime sending season cleaning Giants Chimney ;) |
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M Sprague wrote:The Premium is excellent, and a pretty stiff, technical and enduro C IMO, even though it has a rest ledge in the middle. The top could use a little brushing last I was on it earlier this year. When your rope is hanging from the top anchor you realize just how steep it is. It hits the ground about 30 ft out. Thanks for reminding me Soon. I wanted to get back and give it a scrub and climb it this season. Maybe before I get sucked into spending prime sending season cleaning Giants Chimney ;) Restless is a super cool must do.You are welcomed, Mark. :) Forget GC. It is a lost cause. Sport climbers do not like to hike uphill very far, remember? :) |
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I support this thread and need a new project as well, preferably from 5.12 to 5.13-, thought 13- would be hitting my head against a brick wall. Phil, you should go out down Junkyard Dog or some other strange/obscure routes. Many to be had in Rumney, and many that are surprisingly good. |
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M Sprague wrote:The 5.10 wall at Owls is thin and technical vertical face climbing on small edges. It is good climbing, but definitely not steep jug hauling if that is what you are looking for. The routes are quality and worth the effort if you like that style, but with the approach, lack of much for good warm-ups etc, you have to bring a bit of grit. The days are getting a little short, but if you get a sunny fall morning the conditions can be ideal as it catches the morning sun.Definitely not just looking for juggy routes. It seems like dead-vertical can even be considered steep relative to a lot of other granite here. 100' of that on a beautiful-looking wall sounds like a dream. You're definitely right about the window closing on this one for the season, though. It looks quite exposed to the sun, but probably gets some wind as well. If not this year, then definitely next year! Owl's Cliff in general looks brilliant and I'm pretty disappointed that I haven't made the trip out yet. M Sprague wrote:If you don't like Rumney and you are familiar with the Maine Crags and Sundown, I'm not sure what you are going to have for other steep options. A new steep crag with sport potential is like the holy grail for NH new routers, so if somebody found it, you probably aren't going to pry it out of them ;)Certainly. I was mostly curious if anybody had a favorite route in the Evans Notch Crags. I don't know too many folks who climb out there, so I've been relying on the Handren guide to steer me in the right direction. Always think that a personal recommendation is more valuable than going off a star-value in the guide. Thanks for all the suggestions, Mark! I appreciate all the input S. Neoh wrote:Just some random possibilities at Rumney - Restless Native (tho it has a rest), Hope for Movement, and Good Earth. How about The Premium? All good suggestions! I tried Good Earth in brutal summer heat and planned to put it off until cooler conditions arrived (like now!). That is a fine example of a sustained route. Have not tried the others you mentioned, though it looked like HFM only got difficult in the top 2 or 3 bolts. Having not been on it, I can't say if that's true. The Premium looks amazing. Haven't been back to the Prudential since doing Horned Behavior in may, so it would be nice to go back, as long as we're pushing the Rumney agenda ;) I will also use this thread to say that if you're interested in climbing at Evans Notch and need a partner, PLEASE get a hold of me!!! Getting people to climb out there is like pulling teeth! |
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If you find yourself in southeast ct check out the 12s at Chatfield Hollow. Shape shifter 12c is excellent |