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Best Sport Climbs in NH/ME

Original Post
Phil lip · · New Hampshire · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

I've been clipping bolts a lot this year and am hoping to find another sport project (or two) to work on before winter sets in. Mid-12 or 12+ range would be ideal, but I'd hit my head against 13- as well.

I've never been too inspired by the climbing at Rumney, with a few exceptions that are way over my head difficulty-wise. My favorite routes in this corner of the country have been the uncharacteristically (for the northeast) steep and sustained lines like Sarlack and Shagg It. So something like that would be great.

A few potential ideas that come to mind are:
Routes at the upper 5.10 wall and Owl's Cliff
Confederacy of Dunces at Sundown
The roof routes at Shell Pond (Bombshell). Thought Wild Rumpus was fantastic!
Wild River
Laughing Lion

Any thoughts on these or other suggestions? I haven't been climbing out here for too long, so there's probably a lot I'm not aware of. Let's hear it!

scott fuzz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 125

eyeless in gaza- sundown

Phil lip · · New Hampshire · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

Great route! Though I've repeated it ad nauseam this year. I can't seem to walk by and not climb it when I'm at Sundown

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

Tsunami? I've never been on it but it comes highly recommended. Also seems less disjointed as most Rumney .12's.

Phil lip · · New Hampshire · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

Great idea! I've only ever seen one person trying it, but I don't go out to Waimea very much. That roof is such an inauspicious feature. I'll definitely give that a shot next time I'm there!

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35
Phil S wrote:That roof is such an inauspicious feature. I'll definitely give that a shot next time I'm there!
Indeed! Good luck and have fun.
Rob DeBruyn · · Burlington, VT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 55

What have you done in that grade range already? It would help to know what not to recommend.

I know you said you're not too inspired by Rumney, what in particular don't you like? Flying Monkeys (12c) and Dynosoar (13a) both fit your bill of steep and sustained.

Have you done Ginseng at Shagg? That thing is pretty darn fun.

Edited to add Giant Man (12b/c) to the list of awesome steep continuous lines at Rumney. Plus, that one gets you up and away from all the crowds lower on the mountain, if that's part of what turns you off.

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

Phil!

Get yourself on Big Kahuna, Giant Man, and Whip Tide...then meet me in the Gunks!

JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 866

How about Sundog Wall at Fletcher Bluff in Maine? Never climbed there but I believe there are some steep 12s up there. Farley in MA could also keep you busy for a few days

Phil lip · · New Hampshire · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170
Rob DeBruyn wrote:What have you done in that grade range already? It would help to know what not to recommend. I know you said you're not too inspired by Rumney, what in particular don't you like? Flying Monkeys (12c) and Dynosoar (13a) both fit your bill of steep and sustained. Have you done Ginseng at Shagg? That thing is pretty darn fun. Edited to add Giant Man (12b/c) to the list of awesome steep continuous lines at Rumney. Plus, that one gets you up and away from all the crowds lower on the mountain, if that's part of what turns you off.
Thanks for the suggestions Rob! I've had a nagging shoulder injury that did not feel so great, for whatever reason, when I tried Flying Monkeys a while back. Not sure if it was the movement or just a bad day. I should definitely think about trying that again.

Dynosoar looks great as well- have never tried that.

Did Ginseng this summer and thought it was fantastic. Same with Giant Man.

I don't have a huge problem with the Rumney crowds, I just enjoy the climbing at Shagg/Evans Notch crags a lot more. Different strokes, I guess.

Chris Duca wrote:Phil! Get yourself on Big Kahuna, Giant Man, and Whip Tide...then meet me in the Gunks!
Aye, aye! Let's line something up!

JD1984 wrote:How about Sundog Wall at Fletcher Bluff in Maine? Never climbed there but I believe there are some steep 12s up there. Farley in MA could also keep you busy for a few days
I have not heard a lot about the Bangor area crags- looks like some really nice climbing out there! I've also been meaning to check out Farley. I know next to nothing about it, but it sounds like there's a ton to do there. Thanks for the suggestion!
JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 866

Mormon Hollow near Farley has some nice hard routes as well.... Priapism is supposed to be one of the state's best 12a routes. Couple of 13s there too... western MA has a bunch of hidden gems... get in touch with WMCC as most areas are not documented due to landowner wishes

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 110

Would suggest wild rumpus at shell pond

Phil lip · · New Hampshire · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170
june m wrote:Would suggest wild rumpus at shell pond
Did that this summer as well. Loved it. Also did Two Nuts for You this weekend, which I liked even more! Getting into the roofs at the top makes for a spectacular situation
june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 110

There is a lot of nice climbing in the bangor area but it tends to be slabby/thin face

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

The 5.10 wall at Owls is thin and technical vertical face climbing on small edges. It is good climbing, but definitely not steep jug hauling if that is what you are looking for. The routes are quality and worth the effort if you like that style, but with the approach, lack of much for good warm-ups etc, you have to bring a bit of grit. The days are getting a little short, but if you get a sunny fall morning the conditions can be ideal as it catches the morning sun.

If you don't like Rumney and you are familiar with the Maine Crags and Sundown, I'm not sure what you are going to have for other steep options. A new steep crag with sport potential is like the holy grail for NH new routers, so if somebody found it, you probably aren't going to pry it out of them ;)

There is a little place NW of Newfound Lake on private property google.com/maps/@43.7350649,-71.9031299,148m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en with a couple super steep 12s put up by Brady Libby, one called "My Newest Favorite Route" (maybe a dozen routes total 5.10-13b) Years ago the owner didn't mind us climbing there as long as we respected the place and didn't park so as to interfere with the logging operations, but I have no idea what access is like now. If you do go looking for the place, take one vehicle (good ground clearance). The rock is like the New Wave at Rumney and there was a small mica mine there around the time of WW2. Everything is probably grown over. 20 min+ hike up hill from the dirt road, possibly through confusing logging slash, mud and regrowth.

Durrel Mt aka Whiteface near Gilmanton has some good steep 12s.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

Just some random possibilities at Rumney - Restless Native (tho it has a rest), Hope for Movement, and Good Earth. How about The Premium?

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

The Premium is excellent, and a pretty stiff, technical and enduro C IMO, even though it has a rest ledge in the middle. The top could use a little brushing last I was on it earlier this year. When your rope is hanging from the top anchor you realize just how steep it is. It hits the ground about 30 ft out. Thanks for reminding me Soon. I wanted to get back and give it a scrub and climb it this season. Maybe before I get sucked into spending prime sending season cleaning Giants Chimney ;)

Restless is a super cool must do.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35
M Sprague wrote:The Premium is excellent, and a pretty stiff, technical and enduro C IMO, even though it has a rest ledge in the middle. The top could use a little brushing last I was on it earlier this year. When your rope is hanging from the top anchor you realize just how steep it is. It hits the ground about 30 ft out. Thanks for reminding me Soon. I wanted to get back and give it a scrub and climb it this season. Maybe before I get sucked into spending prime sending season cleaning Giants Chimney ;) Restless is a super cool must do.
You are welcomed, Mark. :) Forget GC. It is a lost cause. Sport climbers do not like to hike uphill very far, remember? :)
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

I support this thread and need a new project as well, preferably from 5.12 to 5.13-, thought 13- would be hitting my head against a brick wall. Phil, you should go out down Junkyard Dog or some other strange/obscure routes. Many to be had in Rumney, and many that are surprisingly good.

Phil lip · · New Hampshire · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170
M Sprague wrote:The 5.10 wall at Owls is thin and technical vertical face climbing on small edges. It is good climbing, but definitely not steep jug hauling if that is what you are looking for. The routes are quality and worth the effort if you like that style, but with the approach, lack of much for good warm-ups etc, you have to bring a bit of grit. The days are getting a little short, but if you get a sunny fall morning the conditions can be ideal as it catches the morning sun.
Definitely not just looking for juggy routes. It seems like dead-vertical can even be considered steep relative to a lot of other granite here. 100' of that on a beautiful-looking wall sounds like a dream. You're definitely right about the window closing on this one for the season, though. It looks quite exposed to the sun, but probably gets some wind as well. If not this year, then definitely next year! Owl's Cliff in general looks brilliant and I'm pretty disappointed that I haven't made the trip out yet.

M Sprague wrote:If you don't like Rumney and you are familiar with the Maine Crags and Sundown, I'm not sure what you are going to have for other steep options. A new steep crag with sport potential is like the holy grail for NH new routers, so if somebody found it, you probably aren't going to pry it out of them ;)
Certainly. I was mostly curious if anybody had a favorite route in the Evans Notch Crags. I don't know too many folks who climb out there, so I've been relying on the Handren guide to steer me in the right direction. Always think that a personal recommendation is more valuable than going off a star-value in the guide.

Thanks for all the suggestions, Mark! I appreciate all the input

S. Neoh wrote:Just some random possibilities at Rumney - Restless Native (tho it has a rest), Hope for Movement, and Good Earth. How about The Premium?

All good suggestions! I tried Good Earth in brutal summer heat and planned to put it off until cooler conditions arrived (like now!). That is a fine example of a sustained route. Have not tried the others you mentioned, though it looked like HFM only got difficult in the top 2 or 3 bolts. Having not been on it, I can't say if that's true. The Premium looks amazing. Haven't been back to the Prudential since doing Horned Behavior in may, so it would be nice to go back, as long as we're pushing the Rumney agenda ;)

I will also use this thread to say that if you're interested in climbing at Evans Notch and need a partner, PLEASE get a hold of me!!! Getting people to climb out there is like pulling teeth!
Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

If you find yourself in southeast ct check out the 12s at Chatfield Hollow. Shape shifter 12c is excellent

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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