Moab Sport Climbing
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Hey guys! |
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Get the "High on Moab" guide book by Karl Kelley. Best book for the area, period. As far as sport climbing goes, Wall St is a good start and the guidebook provides some beta for sport climbing in the mountains as well (but come November the mtns might be a little too chilly). Some better advice would be to wrangle a double rack to #3's before you head down (get started on trad climbing if you haven't already), and try to hunt some partners down in Indian Creek. The quality Moab climbing is in the cracks. |
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Ice cream parlor has sport |
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Check out Mars and the scar both on Potash rd. |
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Thanks for the book suggestions, much appreciated! Any specific route recommendations for a low 5.10 leader? |
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Buy the high on moab book and check out the theatre. Only sporty place I've really been in Moab. There are a couple sport routes on wall street, but nothing really for a low 10 leader I think... |
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ice cream parlor, wall street and mountainproject.com/v/sunsh… 'sunshine wall' also the theater/cinema and the stuff in the la sals from the new book look good too, maybe cold though with shade/elevation. |
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If you don't climb at least 5.11 basically every time you climb then I wouldn't recommend Mill Creek, it's pretty heady, not forgiving to beginners, and stacked with routes that are mainly 5.12 and harder. The Gold Basin (North Dakota Crags in the guide book) is really friendly to the 510 leader but may be getting pretty chilly. Wall St has sport routes from 5.4 to 5.13, plenty for leaders of any ability. The Mars wall on Potash is also stacked with easy sport climbs. The Theatre is alright but super chossy (as in if you don't wear your helmet YER GUNNA DIIIIIIEEEEEE!) |
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Upper/Lower Dakota crags in the La Salles are a blast, probably 30-45 minutes outside Moab to get to the TH with free camping nearby. There are enough routes to keep you busy for a few days, and not near as heady as Mill Creek. Just bring a stick clip. High on Moab has the crag info. Most the routes are 5.9 to 5.12, with the majority being in the 5.10 range I believe. The crag gets sun after about mid morning. My friends said it was actually hot enough last weekend they were hoping for some clouds to float by. If the sun is out you should be fine for a while still. |
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Facts: |
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+1 for Saint George. Lots-o-sport climbing in your grade range. |