Twin Priest Tower - Act of Contrition
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C1
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Paul Ross Layne Potter . April 23 2008 |
Page Views: | 2,506 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Paul Ross on Apr 26, 2008 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Description
Starts up a groove that has rather poor rock on the NW side of the Tower. A cleaner and easier looking first pitch was seen when the FA party rapped off and was climbed by the second ascent party, though sadly it was buried by rockfall. These will be both shown on a photo of the tower.
Original start P1) Climb the groove past two bolts to the shoulder area below the twin towers to double anchors on the left side of the ledge. 100' 5.8 C1.
P1A) An easier and safer first pitch was located on the north side. Scramble under a chockstone to a 5.10 or C1 finger crack that widens to an offwidth and then a 5.8 chimney capped by a small roof. Scramble easily to the anchor after pulling over the roof. Unfortunately this pitch was obliterated by a huge rockfall.
P2) Climb intermittent cracks in the center of the rock leading up to the gap between the two towers. 70' 5.8 C1.
P3) Follow about 4 to 5 drilled angles to a ramp leading to the right edge, then two more angles to a fine summit and register in cairn. 70' 5.8 C1.
Rap the route. From the shoulder rap straight down from the anchors.
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