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If anyone finds my bail biner, please don't return it.

Original Post
nate post · · Silverthorne · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,446

I bailed on a route this weekend I thought it was sport. That's what I get for trying to find an obscure crag with very little information, and then ending up somewhere else all together with zero information and climbing the first random route I see. Low and behold it was a mixed route and I had only draws with me, oops, of course I realized this 80 feet off the deck, run out nearly 30 feet with no anchors in sight. It also dawned on me about this time that my 60 meter rope wasn't enough rope for this climb anyway. I did what any smart climber/husband would do I made some monkey noises and then down climbed to my last bolt. While my belayer/wife yelled obscenities at me for being such an idiot, I happily, unashamedly, pulled out my bail biner, and safely retreated to town for a beer. I left one biner and unless it was made of gold (It wasn't gold, It was Aluminum probably 15 years old) I will not ask for it back, not in a million years. Why? because that's what it was for to save my ass from a difficult situation, be it to hard, weather or just plain old fashioned fear I bailed. I think it was someone else's before it was mine anyway. I have many more bail biners. I sometimes climb routes just to retrieve shiny objects that I see. I'm always looking for the opportunity to use one. If I use a bail biner it means I pushed my limits. It means I pushed beyond my limits or I scared the bejesus out of myself and lived. To me that is a good day of climbing. I like thinking that someone will see the bail biner I left and think to themselves what a chicken shit, as they clip it to there harness and then finish the route. The only time you should ever get a bail biner back is if you figure out how to get it yourself or your more talented climbing buddy/spouse climbs up and gets it for you and even then they should probably keep it. It's not good karma to return a bail biner. It has nothing to do with karma. Karma is what you get for returning a bail biner and the next time you need one you don't have it because you foolishly returned it so know you have to use a quick draw. Someday's bringing a bail biner with me is the only smart decision I will make. I ask that no one ever return a bail biner to me that I have left behind. All I ask is that you use it the next time you have to bail and I will pick up another one along the way.

J Achey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 155

I think I scarfed it, Nate, wanted to keep it, but had to leave it before I even realized I had it. Thanks for one of the best posts ever.

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

Good $0.02

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Nice post.

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

Bail biners are played bro, it's all about the bail draw nowdays.

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

haha well spoken.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

and clue the 1-2 day parody post...

tim · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 507

I'm gonna find and return your biner regardless of wether u want it or not. I could use some good karma cause I'm usually an asshole.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
tim wrote:I'm gonna find and return your biner regardless of wether u want it or not. I could use some good karma cause I'm usually an asshole.
Only for an overpriced 6 pack
nate post · · Silverthorne · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,446

If someone really could get my bail biner for me it's about a ten mile drive down a dirt road off rabbit ear pass. Then an hour and a half hike on an unmarked trail through the forest, three hours if you take the wrong fork. You know your on the right trail if you come across a lot of poison ivy and rattlesnakes. Don't bring your dog. Mine was killed by a cougar(a mountain lion not an older hottie) My biner is on the last bolt of the fourth unnamed route to the right it has a red gate. Bring your own bail biner because once you get mine your going to want to bail as well and I would like mine back so use your own. Seriously I will buy you a six pack. This biner has sentimental value. p.m. me for mailing address.

climberish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

bump

nate post · · Silverthorne · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,446
Glenn Schuler wrote:Bail biners are played bro, it's all about the bail draw nowdays.
Hey, I'm happy to upgrade my bail biner to a bail draw the problem is, whenever I score a bail draw all I see is two bail biners and a piece of scrap nylon holding them together for me.

Twice the bail for my booty.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Now I'm curious about the route. Were you on the Dome, the Shield of the Dome or Silver Dome? What route? I'm guessing a route on the center of the shield that has a small hanging dihedral. It has some bolts, but needs gear to supplement. The real crux is the last ten feet. Poison Ivy, rattlesnakes and mountain lion. Yes, lots of that there.

NickO · · West Slope · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30

I prefer to bail off of quick links, but right before I do I glop on some lock-tite (which I keep in my chalk bag) and crank it down so it is super safe. Then no one else has to leave a highly coveted bail biner behind. Your Welcome.

Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600
Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

^ That photo is incredible.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

Great post. Twice this summer at the City of Rocks I was doing a senility ascent and thought all I need were draws. About half way up had to ask for my gear rack to be sent up.

Nate, though you bailed with grace and poise you should learn how to bail with a sling and retrieve it. That way you do not need to admit to yer follies.

nate post · · Silverthorne · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,446
Greg D wrote:Now I'm curious about the route. Were you on the Dome, the Shield of the Dome or Silver Dome? What route? I'm guessing a route on the center of the shield that has a small hanging dihedral. It has some bolts, but needs gear to supplement. The real crux is the last ten feet. Poison Ivy, rattlesnakes and mountain lion. Yes, lots of that there.
You are about right, It was suzy cream cheese the route right of the small hanging dihedral. It was a fun climb and I was going to go back up with gear the following day but I went to explore some other things instead.
nate post · · Silverthorne · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,446
Allen Sanderson wrote:Great post. Twice this summer at the City of Rocks I was doing a senility ascent and thought all I need were draws. About half way up had to ask for my gear rack to be sent up. Nate, though you bailed with grace and poise you should learn how to bail with a sling and retrieve it. That way you do not need to admit to yer follies.
teach me your ways so that I can walk with my head held high in arrogance once again instead of down in the shame of my folly's. Maybe you can turn this parody post into an educational post.
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
nate post wrote: teach me your ways so that I can walk with my head held high in arrogance once again instead of down in the shame of my folly's. Maybe you can turn this parody post into an educational post.
Check out the Poodle: climbing.com/skill/epic-ins…

The basics:

1. Must be no more than 1/3 of a rope length up the route.
2. Clip into the hanger (and if possible the next one down)
3. Go off belay.
4. Thread a sling through the hanger.
5. Thread the lose end of the rope through both sides of the sling until it hits the ground.
6. Untie from the sharp end of the rope and tie it into the sewn side of the sling.

At this point you will have three strands of rope going to the ground. Make sure all three are on the ground.

7. Rap down on the two strands of the rope going through the sling (not the one tied to the sling).
8. Once on the ground, pull the middle rope strand freeing the strands rapped on going through the sling.
9. Pull the rope strand tied to the sling, thus freeing the sling from the hanger.
10. Walk away with all gear, feeling smug that you left nothing behind but your pride.
nate post · · Silverthorne · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,446

I look forward to trying this method although I don't know that it would have worked on the aforementioned route I was on because I was probably more than a third of the rope length up. But I like that I have just learned a new technique for bailing if I have run out of bail biners:)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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