New Route Ethics
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I am looking at a potential route on Table Rock but want to get imput on the ethics. I know hand drilling bolts on lead is the standard but didn't know what else is needed to know. I don't have much experience bolting so this is not something I will do until I have a lot of experience. I prefere gear placements wherever possible. Any constructive criticism will be appreciated. |
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If this is not the most direct troll of all time, I guess it bears a reply... |
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where were you wanting to put up a line? |
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+1 to what Ben said. Long history of doing things the right way up there. Make sure you do your research :) |
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Here we go... |
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Since Linville Gorge is a wilderness area, and drills are considered motorized equipment. They are out of the question. So your only choice would be a hand drill, and if you have never hand-drilled a bolt, please don't start on Table Rock. |
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There is certainly room for lines to go up at Table Rock, though the locations are less traveled. The guidebook suggestion is a good one to ensure the proposed line is in fact a new line. Also worthwhile would be to engage the North Carolina Outward Bound school located at Table Rock as they will have a very good idea of the history at Table Rock (a large number of the routes were established by the school's climbing instructors). The person you want to talk to is Corey Winstead, the Chief Climbing Instructor. |
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Fortunately we didn't have this issue in the Adirondaks. Divine intervention stepped in to help us. |
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frank minunni wrote:Fortunately we didn't have this issue in the Adirondaks. Divine intervention stepped in to help us. The Mudders ManifestoGood stuff. We are not so blessed here in the South, with a relative lack of Jewish soothsayers. Here, we must rely on grit, determination, and the mighty auspices of the Hard Pipe Swingers Coalition. They work in close contact with the South Georgia Hard Aid and Alpinism Club. HPSC and SGHAAC, respectively. "The Coaltion" lives on through the work of a select few....chopping errant bolts and cleaning up manky installations at a crag near you. They are always watching...lurking in the shadows...with a pipe and a wrench....and a list. "The Club" has fallen on hard times. Word is that the President, CEO, and founding member of the SGHAAC has abandoned the South for the clearer skies, taller objectives, and less "Southern" women of Southwest Wyoming. The Treasurer, Secretary, Travel Advisor, and Media Coordinator (all one person) followed suit. They were the only members. May Korgar smile upon our Southern states... Hand drillers and all. youtube.com/watch?v=PChN2A_… #GTFO |
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Paul Barnes wrote:Here we go... |
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frank minunni wrote:Fortunately we didn't have this issue in the Adirondaks. Divine intervention stepped in to help us. The Mudders Manifesto The Mudder's Manifesto was delivered by the Korgar, the God of Adirondak climbing to Richard Felch the First, who being Jewish, has inherited a long tradition of miracles. As Felch, now the high priest of Korgarism, was inspecting a route, a stone sitting precariously on a ledge spoke out saying. "Trundle me, oh worthless and undeserving servant. Hurl me down upon the troglodytes cringing amongst the talus." Felch, in sudden awe, shrugged his shoulders and said, "Okay." and kicked the stone down upon miscreants at the base. After much cursing, the stone was inspected and found to have an inscription written in burning lichen upon it. And the stone read: Those who would attempt to establish first ascents upon The Mud must abide by the following eleven commandments (well, more like guidelines really). The word "Scamper" is to be stricken from the language. Those who blaspheme using this word shall be subject to repeated humiliation and failure. All members are sworn to secrecy. Rituals such as hi-signs, bloodletting, belching and farting shall be used to induct neophytes. Any member revealing the secret location of routes shall be beaten soundly about the head and shoulders with stones no smaller than a baseball but no bigger than a toaster oven. All humiliating fiascos are to be shared amongst other climbers provided they are not witnessed by outsiders. Napalm is only to be used to expose routes of 5.12 or harder. Routes must be regularly graded under the expected norm. Snickering as others flail is considered a virtuous act. Bolts are only to be placed when you feel like it but the use of a power tool must be employed. Bolts must be placed in such a way that jockeys, basketball players and sumo wrestlers can reach them easily. Ponderous decisions shall not be deliberated upon for more than ten seconds. If an impasse is reached amongst the congregation, Rock Paper Scissors shall be used to settle the dispute. If doubt still exists, the most ridiculous option must be chosen. Any member exhibiting climbing skill greater than the founding fathers, as chosen by the great Korgar, shall be exiled to a flat, nondescript, Midwestern state.As I recall the broken stone, when pieced back together called its reign of power to be planet wide. Enforced by Bears that would keep climbers from air strips and food cashes, or 49 pound marmots That caught rocks in Thier mouths when a hard pitch should have been a head shot. If I read that right it applies from Trieste to Temecula and all points of rock that could be called North Country that lie in between. But so the same holds true for this The one rule of fight club . . . . (Not that I agree with that or this,) I just think it needs to be said Making Sausage is not pretty But if you ask a thousand climbers. . . You will get more than a thousand Answers, You will get a thousand answeres to questions you never asked STFU HTFU climb it the way you want B=D |
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Walk to the Gold Coast and go exploring. There's rocks to be climbed over there and you might not even need to worry with those pesky bolt things. |
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Too bad Rhett followed ME out here :) The SGHAAC still holds regular meetings. Why, just the other day we climbed a large pile of mud in the desert. The south will rise again!! |
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YOURRR GONNAA DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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I am only one day late and this thread is to long to read. Can someone give me the cliff notes? I really want to chime in! |
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Hey sam, maybe you'd like to fill us in on which ones are filled? I can't reed so gud. |
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sam england wrote:Awesome! In order get this thing started off, I have prepared my "Southern Ethics Circlejerk" Bingo Card! Looks like we already have a couple of spaces filled!Tears in my eyes from laughing so hard. Even funnier than This Thread Gave Me Eola graphic in Top Rope Gangbang thread. |
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Sam. |
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Ryan... |
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sam england wrote:Awesome! In order get this thing started off, I have prepared my "Southern Ethics Circlejerk" Bingo Card! Looks like we already have a couple of spaces filled!somebody give this guy a medal. |