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Climbing Near Cumberland Gap in TN/VA/KY

Original Post
Eric Robertson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0

I was driving through the Cumberland Gap tunnel on 25E going southbound when I came out of the tunnel into Harrogate, TN. I looked back over my left shoulder and saw a lot of exposed rock faces on a pretty tall ridge line. I've done a fair amount of research online but cannot seem to figure out what area this may be. Am I being to vague? Does anyone know the area I'm describing? I'm interested in knowing more. Thanks.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

I know the cliff you are referring to, and to my knowledge there is no developed climbing there.

Taylor Mansfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

I believe that cliff line is part of the national park where they don't allow climbing (fairly sure). Anyone have any idea about boulders in Middlesboro KY? I checked out one spot the other day and looked like there was some potential but I have to believe there is more, just not sure where.

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

The big south fork is down that way. That's the only climbing I know of down that way. Be careful around middlesboro though. I lived in far eky and those people down there do not like trespassing.

Chris Watford · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 11

Eric, that was perhaps White Rocks. In the national park and no climbing allowed, as far as I know. Many folks have tried over the years to negotiate access for climbing, to no avail, unless something has changed.

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

Have you checked out Lilly boulders or anything around Knoxville? I'm sure there's a decent climbing scene around that city. I know there is rock down around Cumberland gap but I'm not sure what the access is there. If I was you I will jump back and fourth between the red and Chattanooga.

TNClimber69 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Taylor,

Welcome to the world of climbing!

As you will quickly find out there are whole areas (boulder fields) that have hundreds and hundreds of lines to climb (problems).

Head to Chattanooga Tennessee for some of the best climbing you can ask for.

Heres to you becoming the next Jimmy Webb (pro climber)!

Taylor Mansfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Hey everyone,

Thanks for the replies. I have climbed a fair amount in Chatt and the Obed but am living near Middlesboro currently so was looking for some local climbing. Luckily I have been pretty successful so far in the days I have gone out looking for boulders. Hoping to keep finding more!

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

Eastern kentucky is one of the best kept bouldering secrets. Plus not many climbers live in the area so you typically have it all to yourself! An area is about to get cleared for access about a hour north of you. It had a lot of good boulders and I'll be posting maps and beta as soon as it's good to go!

Taylor Mansfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Mustardtiger,

Sounds great! I will be looking forward to it. I won't be living here past June but definitely let me know. I am not exactly sure about how the access will be handled but so far I haven't run into anyone when I have been out exploring so I guess time will tell. Assuming I don't run into any major issues hopefully I will have some good areas to share as well!

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

I lived down there for four years and climbed in a ton of different areas. I never once ran into another climber. It wasn't until last year when I went down just to visit with some old friends and climb that I finally saw someone with gear. That is why access isn't usually an issue because there isn't enough people climbing for park managment to even notice. If you find an area that has a ton of potential then start asking around. There was a member on here that was with the access fund working on the area I was talking about. I can't remember their name but if you do come across something really big shoot me a pm and I can give you the email address to get access sorted out.

Andrew Blease · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 470

I'm interested in exploring some new rocks in the area. I have some ideas in mind, but I'm lacking partners. Let me know if you're interested.

waldo · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 30

I know this is an old post but I wanted to post a comment. I am new to the Knoxville area and have quite a few crags in the area I want to check out. I am always looking for new climbing partners if you ever want to go to the obed or big south fork feel free to hit me up.

Kailee Tateman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Hey everyone! I have been reading through some old posts but figured I would post anyway! I am about to move to Middlesboro for school and would love to continue rock climbing while I am there. I strictly boulder but I have no clue if there are any bouldering places within an hour of Middlesboro? I have climbed in Chatanooga and Red River Gorge and they are great! Unfortunately they will be too far from me now :( Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

Nathan Witt · · Roanoke, Va · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 3,081

Climbing is getting a foothold in SWVA in Wise County...check out the city of Norton at Flag Rock and Guest River Gorge. Both are currently being developed.

climbing2man Dispensa · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 80

Just moved to the Middlesboro, KY area also looking for any climbers. If anyone is a climber in the area please contact me.

Ray Womack · · Jackson, WY · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

In the late 60s a group of us from Va Tech quite by accident came upon the White Rocks NE of Cumberland Gap along the Va/Ky border. The quartz sandstone cliffs there are the finest rock climbing in Va, no question, nothing even close. We were young and unaware of the unfortunate ban on climbing in the National Park, so we put up about a half dozen routes, all 4 pitch (about 500-ft) and high quality.  These first ascents remain the finest of my 40-yr climbing career, mostly in Colorado, Wyoming, and California, as well as international climbing. It is a shame, a travesty, a waste, that these gorgeous rocks are placed off limits. There is no justification for it, just bureaucracy. The climbing is high quality, with clean, demanding routes. Do not let anyone who has not climbed there tell you that the rock is poor quality or dangerous. I've been up those cliffs and know better. What a pity. The rock climbing in Va is limited to 40-50 foot routes, except for this place, which would be famous and beloved. Please let us adventurous Virginians have a shot at these. What would it take to get this place opened up?

Nathan Witt · · Roanoke, Va · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 3,081
Ray Womack wrote: In the late 60s a group of us from Va Tech quite by accident came upon the White Rocks NE of Cumberland Gap along the Va/Ky border. The quartz sandstone cliffs there are the finest rock climbing in Va, no question, nothing even close. We were young and unaware of the unfortunate ban on climbing in the National Park, so we put up about a half dozen routes, all 4 pitch (about 500-ft) and high quality.  These first ascents remain the finest of my 40-yr climbing career, mostly in Colorado, Wyoming, and California, as well as international climbing. It is a shame, a travesty, a waste, that these gorgeous rocks are placed off limits. There is no justification for it, just bureaucracy. The climbing is high quality, with clean, demanding routes. Do not let anyone who has not climbed there tell you that the rock is poor quality or dangerous. I've been up those cliffs and know better. What a pity. The rock climbing in Va is limited to 40-50 foot routes, except for this place, which would be famous and beloved. Please let us adventurous Virginians have a shot at these. What would it take to get this place opened up?

Sounds like you didn't look hard enough in SWVA. There are multiple areas under development for climbing that are home to 80 to 100 foot lines.

Curtis Baird · · Johnson City, TN · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 1,041

SWVA is nothing but short choss.  Nothing to see here; move along.

Brian Burgess · · Spring, TX · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

I’ll be moving to Middlesboro, KY this summer, and I hope to meet up with some other climbers in the area. Feel free to reach out!

Jason Seals · · Tennessee · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Brian Burgess wrote:

I’ll be moving to Middlesboro, KY this summer, and I hope to meet up with some other climbers in the area. Feel free to reach out!

Pm sent

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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