Eye Sockets Look Down on Chess Board Metals
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | Alvino Pon |
Page Views: | 1,423 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Aug 15, 2003 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
The route climbs the second arete left of Fogline, just left of the Spy Story corner. Begin about 40' left of Fogline below the arete. The first bolt can be seen about 45' up in a grungy area of rock.
Scramble up 25' to a small grassy ledge. Climb up 10' on grungy rock and place pro (red Alien) to protect a 5.6 move. Clip the first bolt shortly above. Continue up past another bolt in the grungy rock, then move up to the clean arete. Climb the arete, with airy 5.9 to 5.10a moves, to the final steep headwall.
The climbing gets harder here. At the 11th bolt, either continue straight up on small holds, or traverse right to a flared hand crack. I climbed the face right of the crack, using the crack and a small pine tree to the right. The crack variation is about 10c; the line following the bolts looked harder. The anchor bolts are a short distance above.
The leader should belay here and bring up the second, since it would take two ropes to lower.
Descent: With a single 60m rope, rappel 100' to a small ledge, from which you can downclimb (3rd class) 30' to the ground. With two ropes, rappel 130' directly to the ground.
The initial section of this climb is grungy, but the moves are good. The arete is clean and airy. The final headwall could use more cleaning. One star for good moves and good position, but there are some sections of uncleaned rock.
Scramble up 25' to a small grassy ledge. Climb up 10' on grungy rock and place pro (red Alien) to protect a 5.6 move. Clip the first bolt shortly above. Continue up past another bolt in the grungy rock, then move up to the clean arete. Climb the arete, with airy 5.9 to 5.10a moves, to the final steep headwall.
The climbing gets harder here. At the 11th bolt, either continue straight up on small holds, or traverse right to a flared hand crack. I climbed the face right of the crack, using the crack and a small pine tree to the right. The crack variation is about 10c; the line following the bolts looked harder. The anchor bolts are a short distance above.
The leader should belay here and bring up the second, since it would take two ropes to lower.
Descent: With a single 60m rope, rappel 100' to a small ledge, from which you can downclimb (3rd class) 30' to the ground. With two ropes, rappel 130' directly to the ground.
The initial section of this climb is grungy, but the moves are good. The arete is clean and airy. The final headwall could use more cleaning. One star for good moves and good position, but there are some sections of uncleaned rock.
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