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The Fang Rock Climbing
Routes in The Fang
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Belligerent Buttress S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crack Therapy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gold Stiletto aka Stiletto/Gold S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Goldfinger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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October Light T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Perfect Stemetry S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rabbit Hole, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Stiletto S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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| Elevation: | 7,417 ft |
| GPS: |
40.1654, -105.3906 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 14,221 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Access Issue: Normal access is closed.
Details
The normal access to this crag is located on private property. This is a change since the St. Vrain guidebook. Trespassing for any reason is illegal. Trespassing will now be enforced with the assistance of the local sheriff's office. Violators will be held accountable for towed vehicles, citations, and any legal actions.
The Fang itself does not reside on this landowner's property.
Boulder County MAY have purchased this parcel of land a couple years ago.
The Fang itself does not reside on this landowner's property.
Boulder County MAY have purchased this parcel of land a couple years ago.
Description
The Fang is undoubtedly the premier sport crag in the SSV canyon. It presents some of the most difficult climbing in the canyon on flawless, solid granite. The main walls of The Fang face West and North, so the crag does not get the best year-round sun. The crag itself looms over the SSV canyon like some dark guardian gargoyl, more ominous than inviting. It looks like a good place to find Count Dracula hiding out from the summer sun. But don't be put off, The Count is no big deal, and the climbing is great. The hike in takes about 40 minutes, but is well worth the hump to pull down on some superb granite in a nice mountain setting. Just pick a warm day to climb at The Fang.
Getting There
The Fang is situated about 9.1 miles up SSV canyon on CO Highway 7. There is a large, paved pull-out for parking. Hike down the road about 100 ft to a bridge that crosses the river (South). Follow the road around to the South side of the hill upon which The Fang sits. After about 1/2 mile, a faint climbers trail will take off to the right. The goal, if you can't find the trail, is to approach the West edge of the crag, and move around North to find the routes.
Update: per Bernard Gillett: the owner of the parcel of land through which the Barking Dog Trail runs has closed his private property to the public. The Barking Dog Trail is the normal approach trail to The Fang, described on this webpage and described in Gillett's St. Vrain guidebook. The landowner has been generous for many years in allowing people to traverse his land to reach The Fang and other destinations, but due to recent vandalism on his land, he is no longer willing to allow access. The landowner has notified the Boulder County Sheriff's Office of the closure, and they've been asked to follow a zero tolerance NO TRESPASSING policy.
The Fang itself does not reside on this landowner's property.
Boulder County MAY have purchased this parcel of land a couple years ago.
Per Rob DeZonia: the bridge is private property. I got to speak with Erik who is taking care of the land and passed my contact info off to the owner of said bridge. I guess vandalism as well as people 4x4ing and shooting guns from that little county road caused him to close the bridge to the general public.
Update: per Bernard Gillett: the owner of the parcel of land through which the Barking Dog Trail runs has closed his private property to the public. The Barking Dog Trail is the normal approach trail to The Fang, described on this webpage and described in Gillett's St. Vrain guidebook. The landowner has been generous for many years in allowing people to traverse his land to reach The Fang and other destinations, but due to recent vandalism on his land, he is no longer willing to allow access. The landowner has notified the Boulder County Sheriff's Office of the closure, and they've been asked to follow a zero tolerance NO TRESPASSING policy.
The Fang itself does not reside on this landowner's property.
Boulder County MAY have purchased this parcel of land a couple years ago.
Per Rob DeZonia: the bridge is private property. I got to speak with Erik who is taking care of the land and passed my contact info off to the owner of said bridge. I guess vandalism as well as people 4x4ing and shooting guns from that little county road caused him to close the bridge to the general public.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Fang
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (9)
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