Getting the correct fit for ice boots

I have tried on Nepal Evos in both size 43 and 43.5 with a mountaineering sock on over a liner. The size 43 fits very snug, almost like you would want a normal boot to fit. While the 43.5 definitely had a little more room in it, my heel didn't seem to be slipping. What is the concensus on whether a mountaineering boot is too tight or not? I dont want my toes to be badly bruised after ice climbing, but I also dont want severe blisters if the 43.5 are too big.

-Mike

Put on boot. Lace it up. Kick a wall.

Did your toes hit the front of the boot? If so, you're going to have a bad time. Size up.

Now try standing with your toes on a tiny edge, or walking up an incline on your tip-toes. Is your heel sliding around? If so, you're going to have a bad time. Size down.

If that means you're between sizes, and you have low-volume feet and high-ish arches, Superfeet Greens will decrease the volume in the boot, which will hopefully keep your heel in place without going to a shorter size. Maybe. Works for me and my Nepal Evos, anyway.

Further; if you can't wiggle your toes, they will fall off. Only fruit boots should be this tight, I guess.

To add to Todd's solid advice, you want plenty of room in the toe box. In addition to comfort, this is key to staying warm.

That said, this shouldn't stop you from getting a performance fit. If you can't find a size that gives you room and holds the heel well, try a different brand or model. There is a lot of variation across the different manufacturers and sometimes variation between models for the same manufacturer.

Other things to keep in mind:
- If you're planning on going to altitude, your feet may swell a bit. Size up accordingly.
- If you're just planning on ice cragging (e.g. Ouray), you could potentially size down for a more performance fit. That said, you can't really take your boots off between climbs like you can sport climbing. Likewise, you're probably going to have to walk out in them.

i think it has alot to do with what you want to climb.

if you want to climb wi5 and mixed climbs you are not kicking the ice very hard...no need for extra toe room. then again you may want a boot more like the trangos for that.

if you are climbing rock hard alpine ice in cold temps, or warm temps for that matter, you may want a little space so you dont kick the ends of your boots.

living in bozeman, i assume you will be climbing hyalite. i would go for a tighter fit. (never climbed there, but i would assume fairly picked out, and steep technical routes requiring precise footwork, mostly rapping off shorter climbs)

places like cascade volcanoes i would go for a bigger fit, (not as technical climbing, long days on your feet, big descents, lots of kicking steps and hard alpine ice)

Mike-Mayhem wrote:I have tried on Nepal Evos in both size 43 and 43.5 with a mountaineering sock on over a liner. The size 43 fits very snug, almost like you would want a normal boot to fit. While the 43.5 definitely had a little more room in it, my heel didn't seem to be slipping. What is the concensus on whether a mountaineering boot is too tight or not? I dont want my toes to be badly bruised after ice climbing, but I also dont want severe blisters if the 43.5 are too big. -Mike

I would say cool or jets for a month...ish before you buy
Sign up for a clinc at the Bozeman ice fest December 9-13 bozemanicefest.com/

before your day out go to every boot vender and try on a few different boots of each brand and see what truly fits your feet. Also you are able to test gear all week long so try take two or three pairs boots out with you each day and climb on your own (sans clinic). Remember unless its G1 you are going to you will be walking a mile or so in. make sure your heel is locked down well.
The Nepals are great if you have slender feet, but you may find that Scarpa (or insert whar ever brand) are better for you.
What you need to look for is snug enough for climbing dexterity but loose enough not to squash your toes or things will get cold and hurt.
For me I wear a perfect 39.5 but went with a 40 ice boot which I wear thick heeled fat mountaineering socks.

Kinda sorta maybe off topic a bit but here goes, and of course it depends on that type of climbing you're doing.
I have pair of la sportiva spectres (ski boots) that climb pretty well. Nice to not have to pack in a pair of ice boots on an alpine skin approach and you can ski off. Great for easier ice, although I've not tried them on anything above WI 4. I did try them on some "WI5" in Ouray at the park but it was pretty hacked out. I did change into my Mont Blanc's to do some mixed, don't think the spectres would be very good for that. I also liked not having to insert sweaty socked feet into a frozen ski boot after climbing for a few hours (had to fight that scenario once and it left a bad taste in my mouth). Since this post was about fit I will also say it was nice to have something moldable as far as the liners and I had the shop punch out a few spots in the shell because I have hobbit feet.

my feet are slightly different sizes, aren't all ours

I went one size down from where I was experiencing heel slippage

on the bigger foot I sometimes think I should have sized up a half size

maybe one day I can play with the liners enough to fix all this

I'm still yet to do a long mileage day with the evo's, usually bring doubles for that

size up

Lots of good info in this thread, but you can distill it all down pretty simply: a perfect fit is (usually) very difficult to find.

I bought and sold 8 (yeah, eight) pairs of ice boots over 3 seasons before finding something that fit me really well. I then spent another 3-4 days dialing in the fit with various combos of insoles and socks until I got to what I consider "perfect." I've kept the same boot and sock system now for the past 5+ seasons.

I have a very narrow heel, high arch, low volume, long foot, with adducted 5th metatarsals (i.e. "6th toe" bone spurs). Not easy to fit. Climbing boots were hard. Ski boots are a nightmare. My left foot is a size 12, my right is 11 3/4. Eventually I settled on Phantom Guide boots with green Superfeet insoles. On my left I wear a silkweight liner, on my right I wear a slightly thicker liner, with mountaineering weight woolies over both. I also have slightly different lacing patterns for both boots.

Moral of the story - it might take a while to find something that works just right for you. Don't be afraid to mess around and try stuff out. But I'm pretty fanatical about fit - my story may be more complicated than yours needs to be :)

I haven't seen any mention of socks ..... Did I miss something? This is a key factor in how/whether your boots fit. You can really make up for missing space by adjusting the number of pairs you have on, and their thickness.

My thinking tends to be- Buy boots too big, then layer on the socks so the boots fit, and you are extra warm.

I see a lot of people saying they climb in thick mountaineering socks, I just wanted to chime in in favor of a thin ski sock.

I find I can get a more precise fit and still have toe wiggle room if I use a thin ski sock. Since I climb in insulated boots, the dead air space is just as good as a thick sock for keeping my feet warm.

I didn't read this anywhere here so..

Go to a reputable climbing shop and get fit for boots. I've bought couple pairs of boots after demoing at an Ice Fest. That does work well. However I got fitted for a pair of Scarpa Phantom Guides from the Mountaineer in Keene Valley NY. I thought 46s would be way too big and almost went against what size was recommended. Those boots are most comfortable but best fitting boots I've ever worn. I paid more than buying online but it was worth every penny.