The spectrum of bolts available for climbing use.

Hey all-

Looking to get into some more bolting. Most of my (few) lines that I have put up to date have been hand drilled on lead 5 piece Power bolts, and most of this has been on gear routes that require a bolt or 2 and/or anchors.

I am looking for more knowledge on the array/spectrum that is available to me. Ideally I'd like to start using epoxy based bolts.

What I'm looking for is a layout to what is currently available that people use, and where to buy it. This would include 5 piece bolts, wedge bolts, and epoxy bolts. I dont have much knowledge about what type of epoxy to use that is recommended for rock.

Also, because I like placing bolts on lead by hand drill, ground up, I'm also interested in 1/4" options for faster placements on first ascents to replace them after the first ascent with standard equipment.

Thanks for the feedback. If there are any good websites to link, I'm interested in that too.

Your best bet for glue-in bolts are going to come from climbtech.com and bolt-products.com the two most common epoxies in the US are Hilti RE500 and Powers AC100+ Gold. I most commonly use the ac100 because it is easier to work with and cures to full strength (depending on ambient temperature) in about an hour, where as the RE500 can take 24 hours, and requires a special dispenser.

Super helpful, thanks all.

One tip is to not cheap out on the caulking gun or you will have a heck of a time getting all the epoxy out of the tube and drip in between every bolt. I'm partial to this model. amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017O91…