Wheeler Mountain, VT - Standard Route or VJ's?

Hey folks,

The lady and I are heading up to Willoughby State Forest and climbing and camping at Wheeler Mountain tomorrow. We are looking at the Standard Route or VJ's (which joins the standard route). My concern is that the traverse into the dike through the trees might be funky and if I can't protect well for my second I wouldn't be as apt to do it.

So Northeast MP'ers, have you done it? What do you think?

Also, we might do some single pitches (<5.9) after, any recommendations?

Thanks in advance

I don't remember exactly how we started VJ's/the standard route but remember it being a good climb/don't remember any scary traverses. If you have the Tough Schist guide I would follow its suggested route (that is what we did).

Moose head crack (a ways climbers left on the cliff) was a fun/worthwhile single pitch 5.7 and there is also a cool 5.10 that shares the same anchors.

moose crack (5.7) for single pitch, fun climbing, a bit shallow though.

i climbed vj's into standard route i believe? we climbed two pitches to the base of the great corner, then you can traverse left, place a bomb #3 or #3.5 in a blocky section, and continue the downclimb. i placed both pieces, brought my second over, and belayed her down the down climb section. it was only a few steps down, very doable, and then down climbed myself.the base of the open book is very flat, with large shrubs behind you. we both felt very comfortable with no anchor built. the open book pitch is rockin'. i went right up the middle, though i know i've heard of people going off to the left side up the arete.

the start of the route is right at the top of a small ledge, you can walk around right up blocks to get there, or scramble your way right up. if the great corner is directly above you, you're at the start of VJ's. hope this isn't too incoherent. gonna be a beautiful day up there with the foliage peaking!

Right on, thanks gentleman! Exactly what I was looking for. It's going to be a great day.

Never done the real start to standard but it looks unapealing. VJs is excelent. Climb a short crack on P2 to a tree ledge. Climb featured slab on the left a bit run out but easy to a good crack on the left perhaps 40ft up and bomber gear,move left into the bushes and scramble down to#3 cracks that you can protect well enough so your 2nd can down lead them basicly on TR to a spacious stance/ flat ledge at the base of the open book. there is no real belay anchor here other than sling some brush and perhaps a micro cam by your feet but falling off the ledge is unlikly. The climb up the big open book is not that great, often wet and marginal gear but easy. after the short dirty corner there is very nice easy face and crack climbing to the summit.

For the record There is no camping at wheeler these days.... There is a big sign posted that clearly states, No Camping.

That left side arette would be a 5 star beginners lead anywheres if it had a single bolt on it. as it stands though it is a 5.6X for 10+ leaders...
it is what it is....

So we had a fantastic day on VJ's, it was the perfect climb. Thanks for all the beta folks. Nick, I peeked out onto that arete to see if I could ride it to the top but you are right, nothing going gear-wise. Either way, great climb on a great day.

Finishing VJ's route on Wheeler Mtn., VT

Slacker, fyi, there's no camping on the private land, but the rest is state forest (including much of the base of the mountain) which does allow primitive camping. The signage does sure make it look like you can't camp there though and I was second guessing myself for a bit. Thankfully I had a map straight from Vermont's website which outlined the park boundaries and showed that though the hiking trail to Wheeler is on private land, almost all the rest is in the state forest. Just a heads up.

The real start of the standard is ok, but you have to climb around the giant dildo of death, whichn apears to have shifted over the years, the next pitch is all moss/ lichen /dirt. Not worth it

Never even slightly tempted to try the old start to standard;) beautifull place though. We did do the 10+ finger crack just right of standard once. the 9ish start to the left of Vjs is fun.

Can't go wrong up there, its all good! what else did you end up climbing?

Oh Ira, I forgot to thank you for your message as well. Very kind of you to give all that information. We ended up running the Moosehead crack and the 10a and 8 next to it. All of which were quite fun. There is so much more out there, hopefully we can return before the snow starts flying.