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Miura VS 5mm edge vs 3mm grip

Original Post
Verscoe Leis · · Forest Lake, MN · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

Resoler in my area only has these 2 xs types available. Any recommendations? The shoes are 4mm edge factory. Decrease in performance @ 5mm?

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86

5mm is going to make the shoe stiffer, 3mm will not last as long...

Send them somewhere that can put on the rubber you want?

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

I will say the 5mm rubber is way thicker than 5mm...4 is the sweet spot. I would find someone with 4mm

DWF 3 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

In my opinion the miuras are best with grip. You can edge on anything bigger than an 1/8th inch just fine. Smaller than that and I can sense some rolling. They do smear way better though. I always thought the edge was kinda slippery anyway.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

I once had a resole done with 3mm Grip ("slipper rubber"). The shoe performed fantastic for 3 months. Then at about four months, I had to get another resole. It just wore through, evenly. For comparison, a resole with Five Ten C4 lasts me one short season, about 40 days of climbing, with no rand damage.

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

Just do yourself a favor and get either C4 or Onyxx. The five ten rubber is far superior than the vibram offerings.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

I would not go so far as to say Five Ten C4 is far superior to Edge and Grip 2.
I have tried Edge (original on Katana Lace), Grip 2 (original on Scarpa Vapor V and Tenaya), C4 (as resole), and Oynxx (also as resole). Of these I liked the Oynxx least. As for Edge, I remember one edgy climb I led in the heat of summer for which I was glad I had good Edge on my Katana Lace, as C4 has problems with micro edging above 85F or so. Grip 2 is about as good as C4 outdoors but C4 beats all when smearing and edging on slimy, well-worn gym footholds. Indoors felt like cheating to me after I resoled my KL with C4 after the original Edge rubber delaminated. That feeling did not last long. Ha ha.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Find someone who resoles with 4mm rubbah

As for the type ... Most of it is in ur head

Theres a persiatant myth that c4 is the "best" rubber and vibram is shiet

Ill say 4 simple names to disprove this ... Ondra, honnold, caldwell, jain kim

Those 4 names cover the range of the top climbers on every kind of rock/plastic ... If it was shiet they would be flailing like crap at their limits

Gotta luvvv these rubbah arguments

;)

Verscoe Leis · · Forest Lake, MN · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks all. Gonna go with the grip 2 for this round, rather than deal with a stiff shoe. When it wears out again, I'll send it to rock and resole to get the 4mm edge, or some c4.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Andrewww wrote:Just do yourself a favor and get either C4 or Onyxx. The five ten rubber is far superior than the vibram offerings.

C4 is sticky but it is also very soft. Your comment is not balanced. Vibram is a compromise between grip and longevity.
Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

C4 has lasted much longer on my Vapor V's than the XSGrip it came with. It is stickier, longer lasting and has performed overall much better than the prior Vibram rubber. I have used shoes with XSedge and I prefer Onyxx for my edging shoes. Might be a preference matter, but I do believe in my experience, 5.10 rubber's perform better.

And C4 soft? Haha, soft is the MI6 rubber on my Dragons.. not so great at edging but damn is it sticky. Tom Cruise walked up glass with it, c'mon!

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86

I put C4 on my evolv pontas as a resole. I have been happy with it but it wears pretty quick considering they are backup shoes. I really like XSEdge though on my other shoes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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