Broken Circuit and aspiring aid climbers *facepalm*

So some genius fixed several heads on Broken Circuit, the V5 to the left of Circuit Breaker in Yosemite.

broken circuit, wtf?

fixed heads

The highest one is particularly obnoxious because it's right in the last tips jam which you use for the crux move. I don't have any experience cleaning heads, and some of them are in there pretty deep. Hopefully there's a good samaritan out there with the know-how to clean up this mess.

And it should go without saying, but it's totally inappropriate to hammer copperheads, pitons, or practice bolts into established boulder problems. I know pitoning from back in the day is what created the finger locks in the first place, but Broken Circuit has been a popular free climb for at least 30 years now. If you really want to aid it, it's like C2 with offset cams.

If these were in my local area I'd use a funkness device on them in reverse. Since they are in Yosemite...maybe there is a better way that will preserve the climb.

That is pretty dumb.
Wonder if the offending party will speak up here.
If i am up that way and they are still there I will remove them.

There are some posts somewhere on how to use a butter-knife style chisel to extract dead-heads. I'm not sure if this is a better method than using the cable since it is still attached? Paging Mark Hudon.

Wow what a disgrace to aid climbers!!! This idiot does not need to be aid climbing solid clean placements right below the heads if you must..... Then leaving them no respect! Should be pretty easy to clean sense the cables are attached a few tugs with a funkness or taps with a butter knife and hammer shouldn't do much damage to the rock!

Got them out fairly easy on lunch with a nut tool and a homemade funkness....found and removed a hidden 4th dead head too

heads pulled from Broken Circuit (V5)

hey, i need those back. that was my project, and i just left them there so i could work it next time. thanks.

Thanks Chad, you rock!

No worries! Glad I could help! ...it gave me something to do on my lunch haha