Development of old undocumented front range crag

bus driver wrote:

"Some n00bs that post in favor of bolts have been climbing for 25 years. . . In 25 years I've learned that I prefer to climb bolted routes than doing top ropes or head points."

Great! Isn't it wonderful that there are so many areas out there for you to engage in that activity on? I'm not into headpoints either. I'm an on-sight climber, not a rehearsal type of guy. I go for maximum new mileage. Fortunately I can do that in so many places too. Though some routes are too hard/committing/scary for me, so I don't do those.
And I'm OK with not doing those. I wish I could, but they are over my head.

Highlander wrote:How do think climbers got by without the internet and fancy guidebooks before.

I'm getting pretty old and much of what I climb is undocumented so I've got it figured out.

To those who do care, the crag is located in Deer Creek Canyon on Jeffco property. This area will allow for at least 3 lines, the hardest being a 10c-ish slab with a low crux. The easiest is a trad line in the 5.7/5.8 range. The area has a pullout and is well hidden by trees, thus drawing less attention from traffic. We really felt a blow when Roadside Crag closed. UAC lessened the blow (for moderate climbers). The climbing community is really growing in our neck of the woods. Getting this done and out to the public would be a nice addition. I wonder if enough time has passed to perhaps see if someone wants to start negotiating with the land owners to get Roadside open again.

Regarding the FA? Stich and I probably can't claim those. My guess is someone who was a part of Allen Hill's crew had something to do with that, based on their history in the area.

Legs Magillicutty wrote: I'm getting pretty old and much of what I climb is undocumented so I've got it figured out. To those who do care, the crag is located in Deer Creek Canyon on Jeffco property. This area will allow for at least 3 lines, the hardest being a 10c-ish slab with a low crux. The easiest is a trad line in the 5.7/5.8 range. The area has a pullout and is well hidden by trees, thus drawing less attention from traffic. We really felt a blow when Roadside Crag closed. UAC lessened the blow (for moderate climbers). The climbing community is really growing in our neck of the woods. Getting this done and out to the public would be a nice addition. I wonder if enough time has passed to perhaps see if someone wants to start negotiating with the land owners to get Roadside open again. Regarding the FA? Stich and I probably can't claim those. My guess is someone who was a part of Allen Hill's crew had something to do with that, based on their history in the area.

Legs,
Where is this Roadside thing? Got a map/link?
Who is the land owner?
This might be within the BCC's range.

Hey Tony!

Roadside Crag

It's located in Deer Creek Canyon. I'm not sure who ownes the property but it would be easy to find out.

Legs Magillicutty wrote: This area will allow for at least 3 lines, the hardest being a 10c-ish slab with a low crux. The easiest is a trad line in the 5.7/5.8 range.

I TR'd three lines, including flailing on the damp 10c slab and the 5.7/5.8 crack. I think there is potential for 5 to 10 more routes. Most will be easy, but the diagonal bulgy/roofy dry section on the right might go too.

Thanks to everyone for your thoughts, and especially Legs Magillicutty & Stich for providing some real history!

Development collaboration can probably go off-line from here.

We will post it when there is enough to share.

Stich wrote:I assure you that this crag is only going to appeal to locals who can get there minutes from their front doors. There is better rock out there still for the rest of you, and I would say it is in your canyons that already have many crags and would seem to be tapped out. You just need to hike a little further, go a little out of the way, and you can find new crags of your own. You'd be amazed how many little canyons are right next to the ones you already climb in. Most of the low lying fruit has been found, sure, but there's still rock in Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, and just about anyplace you can think of. Think about the Tiers of Zion. Who knew that was worth developing? It's super close, has some quality lines, and is a refreshing addition to any after work outing in hot weather. If you do a little bushwhacking, you might find more.

Well said.
Thank you Stich.

Legs Magillicutty wrote:Hey Tony! Roadside Crag It's located in Deer Creek Canyon. I'm not sure who ownes the property but it would be easy to find out.

OK, thanks.
" The property owner (driveway just west of the crag) stopped by and told us it was his land and didn't want us there."
Eh... yeah, private property. That's always the toughest. I was hoping it would be one or another land agency.
That said, does anyone have a personal contact with the land owner? Want to give me contact info other than a driveway location? That won't get us "in" on good terms, so I'm hoping that someone might know him.

is this crag on the same or opposite side of the road as the UAC?  

The area I was interested in is just down stream of https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107311864/deer-creek-canyon-cave.  My request for development (and the requests of others) was denied by JCOS.  With no bolts, its not an attractive area to climb.  There is very little trad pro, and the top of the cliff is difficult to TR for most of its length.

Has JCOS ever approved of a whole new crag that didn’t already have bolted routes before they bought it?

Very doubtful. 

Funny how the climbing management plan says there’s a process for new crags, but none have ever been approved.  Have there even been any new routes approved in JCOS?

It's a joke.

Tzilla Rapdrilla wrote: Funny how the climbing management plan says there’s a process for new crags, but none have ever been approved.  Have there even been any new routes approved in JCOS?

Several new routes have been approved and developed in JCOS. The volunteer FHRC committee has recommended that several new crags (including the one Alan is referring to) be permitted for development. Unfortunately all of the new crags that have been proposed have been denied by JCOS based on a number of variables such as parking, infrastructure, natural resources, etc.  

You can always borrow the permit I used for bolting up the UAC

There are always reasons for bureaucracies not to do things. 

Monty wrote:

Several new routes have been approved and developed in JCOS. The volunteer FHRC committee has recommended that several new crags (including the one Alan is referring to) be permitted for development. Unfortunately all of the new crags that have been proposed have been denied by JCOS based on a number of variables such as parking, infrastructure, natural resources, etc.  

Yeah, I imagine that for a new crag to be developed, there must be:
1) A good trail already to it.
2) Adequate parking for if it becomes popular (IE Tiers of Zion).
3) No history of eagles nesting nearabouts.

I don't know for sure, and I am not defending those criteria, but I am guessing those are about right.

The assessed criteria included:

• Parking & traffic safety:  There is enough parking for light use, but not enough if the area got popular.
• Trail access, including how to cross the creek:  A bridge would be required at some water levels. Funding priorities for trail development went to existing areas that need attention.
• Local community benefits/concerns:  Locals don't want more use of 'their' canyon.
• Environmental impacts:  Several sensitive plant species and one bird species (not eagle) were identified as potentially in the area.  
• Sanitation:  There is a JCOS portalet at Phillipsburg less than a mile up the road.

The JCOS climbing rangers worked hard to get the area approved, but were over-ruled in the end.