Hard (as in Mega Hard) Crack Proj CT

So anyone interested in a highball mega hard project? Been looking at this thing for years now... figured posting it on the webs might attract some needed attention.

Wall is prob 60 deg overhanging, has small fingers crack, is offset, and probably tops out at about 20ft. Below is an image of the wall with a yellow line drawn to the right of the crack. I can't imagine it being any easier than V10 and likely a lot lot harder. It's located in Bald Rock Basin area in CT.

Pagan Wall

It's very steep in person.

Sounds interesting, but a bit too far a drive for one problem.

Good luck!

GO

What I can tell you is this is not a 5.12 climber's proj (more like 5.14) and, might even be better as a short route... as for your comment, I'll let you figure out the error in your assumption, well, hope you figure it out...

I wasn't aware I had made any assumptions. But thanks for the beta on how hard it is - clearly outta my league.

Cheers,

GO

GabeO wrote:..for one problem.

I'll help you out... your assumption that there's only one problem or one project. There are ~200 established problems at Bald Rock.

I did not assume that. My response was just a personal one - not meant to dissuade other folks who might be interested in the other problems too.

That, and I figured I'd bump your post to get some eyes on it. ;)

GO

Word... thnx Gabe! If you haven't been you should...

Depending on how clean it is I'll play with it next time I am there...course you ll probably be there too since Ill invite you hahaha

Aid it and bag the FA. The FFA is worthless without the vision! I recommend ground up tactics. You may need to invest in a haul bag though.

Eli Buzzell wrote:Aid it and bag the FA. The FFA is worthless without the vision! I recommend ground up tactics. You may need to invest in a haul bag though.

Haha I never thought of aidin it, not that I've ever aided anything, but seems like it would be fun to dick around on... I did just get some hooks in the mail yesterday but they're for bolting on steep rock.

And josh... awesome... its pretty clean just a little lichen. And after messing on this and getting shut down ;-P you can send that traverse proj!

I'll load up what I have not lost

Not as chossy as it looks
Small , big holds at the top No pad needed

Moptop
Slantz

Today? oh well Thursdays are rough for me but ?

YES TICS UGH ! I brought one tiny one home !

Sunday I went in at the very end of the day. and walked down the power lines
missed you and am still floundering I must just be to lazy to keep going .

I see rock or smell it and strike out into the woods. ' . . . . .
I have climbed there 3 or 4 times. Getting up and down at least 3 to 10 things every visit, a couple of very brief visits.
3 very good problems,

but
mixed in with the hard stuff are things like these pics.
( this is a test I'm not much good at Taking or posting pics )

There are some do able hard climbs and many are full value from the look
of the stuff that is not worth stopping for, ?

Fresh

(lost the picture for the description below?...)
(I climbed the White slab (on the right) & the left to right to 'diagonal crack from the dark orange face )to Green' ledge, to the the two white roof move, variations, as well as down and up the notch)

And the hand crack flake blocked by poison ivy vines (removed) on the far left, to the top.
And a few more lesser up and downs.scared my self on the dark face below at the bottom left, some flakes blew. .

I found my way to a rock with a slanted squeeze chimney on the side.
capped by an oblong block, canted at an angle, in the opposite direction of the slot.
and a Grovel tunnel exit
it was gross and not recommended .
The Grovel Tunnel or The Grovel Slot - 5.grovel in the dirt.?

The 'front' of the cap stone allowed exit three ways left, it was an airy exit after the slots!' security .
The right exit was where the cap stone jutted up and I was able to crab walk/hang, stem to a standing finish.
and the more difficult may be a V grade ~? climb out the center;
the belly flop method that I used needs a clean mantle through the middle.

anyway~ on the face aspect , facing the power lines Was an intrusion of
yellow or tan quartz, that dripped down the scooped overhanging
15 foot high block, in the shape of an icicle.

So The ICICLE SLOT BLOCK. . . but that is up for grabs.

It is very distinctive, not climbed, I cleaned it a bit but not the top out.
The top-out was typical, sketch and not worth the risk,
padless/rope-less/alone.
I did not top out.
But climbed from just left of the intrusion going up right across
Left to right on top of the intrusion.
I did use chalk on the opening holds,
Four in-cuts in the first ten ft,
then a off balance step and suck in step up,
that had my right foot next to my left shin.
There I played around a bit it seems like it will go.

The woods are studded with fun rocks
some very hard, and some not .
It is worth a visit as the fall colors start to flair up.

clearly, I have still not found my way but i am having fun.
Very fun right hand slot. . . The roof crack on the left, short, bad landingz, three hard moves. . .

Michael Schneider wrote:Today?

Tomorrow yes... not today... and you need to start using the woodsy entrance. On Sunday I decided to try walking out along the power lines. Within 50 ft I stopped looked down on my pants and found two micro ticks. Immeditely turned back and walked to back of bald rock and in the scenic route. Oh and I found another one after walking back 50ft through that brush. Fu*k that... I wouldn't go in that way anymore period. On Sunday I even placed some cairns and did some trail work on the way in along the backside to help you guys out...

Draw Thief wrote:Pretty cool group text you've got going.

Cool ,
I only have an old rope out there. Three or four days ago,

somewhere some places would have looked like a Christmas tree full of hanging ornaments.
To you.

Now mind you Draw Thief,
since my go to rope is a 9 ml 150 foot
Edelweiss Extreme that is 35 + years old.
How old is a rope that I feel is to old? . .. .. ..old !

you should think before you use any found or hanging gear.
I regularly leave very very old gear in place.
While I know its history - how can you be sure that draw you stole
hasn't been in fumes ? Lost for the summer in a car trunk ?
Then left at some point as a cryptic warning or as a marker.

If you use it always equalize - make it the backup.
Or don't Ef with it

Are you coming to a cliff near me ?

This is the time that I leave gear to pre protect the tops of the things that freeze up.
Please don't steal tat and draws off of climbs.

If you DID NOT build it

place it
or
bail from it

Leave it alone.

Your life force is worth more

Than that ~been in the car trunk to long ~ draw!

Draw Thief wrote:Pretty cool group text you've got going

Michael Schneider wrote: Cool , I only have an old rope out there. Three or four days ago, somewhere some places would have looked like a Christmas tree full of hanging ornaments. To you. Now mind you Draw Thief, since my go to rope is a 9 ml 150 foot Edelweiss Extreme that is 35 + years old. How old is a rope that I feel is to old? . .. .. ..old ! you should think before you use any found or hanging gear. I regularly leave very very old gear in place. While I know its history - how can you be sure that draw you stole hasn't been in fumes ? Lost for the summer in a car trunk ? Then left at some point as a cryptic warning or as a marker. If you use it always equalize - make it the backup. Or don't Ef with it Are you coming to a cliff near me ? This is the time that I leave gear to pre protect the tops of the things that freeze up. Please don't steal tat and draws off of climbs. If you DID NOT build it place it or bail from it Leave it alone. Your life force is worth more Than that ~been in the car trunk to long ~ draw!