Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.6 from 24 votes
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Ron Olevsky and Joy Ungritch, May 2 1985 FFA: Ken Sims, Mark Hesse, and Maura Hanning-Sims, 1995. |
Page Views: | 4,462 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Josh Ewing on Nov 13, 2006 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
(P1) scramble up on a ledge and climb a fist crack splitter (5.10) that is right next to a 6 friend corner. When possible, pull up into the wide chimney and do a few 5.7 moves to gain a hand crack on the left wall of the chimney. Belay here inside the chimney at a good stance on a wedged boulder.
(P2) climb the hand crack up the chimney wall and follow it out onto the face at a sloping ledge. Continue up the crack, now 1.5 friend sized for a few moves until it is possible to move back right into a squeeze chimney (#3 Big Bro would have been really nice). Climb the squeeze chimney (5.9) and do some awkward OW moves onto a ledge with a decent bolt, a drilled angle and a crappy star drive. Belay here.
(P3) Bust up the overhanging dihedral on stacks to gain thin hands in the vertical corner (5.11c). The crack pinches back down to stacks before going wide again for more OW to the top of the pillar past some loose rock at the very top. Belay at 2 drilled angles.
(P4) Pull one or two moves of loose 5.6 to the summit, then downclimb back to the belay (Old anchors on top are not trustworthy).
Descend via 3 single rope raps (with a 70 meter rope) or one single rap from the top and one double rope from the pitch 2 belay)
(P2) climb the hand crack up the chimney wall and follow it out onto the face at a sloping ledge. Continue up the crack, now 1.5 friend sized for a few moves until it is possible to move back right into a squeeze chimney (#3 Big Bro would have been really nice). Climb the squeeze chimney (5.9) and do some awkward OW moves onto a ledge with a decent bolt, a drilled angle and a crappy star drive. Belay here.
(P3) Bust up the overhanging dihedral on stacks to gain thin hands in the vertical corner (5.11c). The crack pinches back down to stacks before going wide again for more OW to the top of the pillar past some loose rock at the very top. Belay at 2 drilled angles.
(P4) Pull one or two moves of loose 5.6 to the summit, then downclimb back to the belay (Old anchors on top are not trustworthy).
Descend via 3 single rope raps (with a 70 meter rope) or one single rap from the top and one double rope from the pitch 2 belay)
Location
Hike up the wash mentioned in the area description for only 200 yards or so and cut up left to a small break in the cliff band (cairns). Do a 5.2 move or so and get up on the mesa top. Hike all the way around to the back of the tower formation, resisting the urge to gain elevation up toward the tower. Stay level all the way around the the back and go up a wash/gully on the far left side of the formation. Then, walk right along the cliff to the base of the climb.
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