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Red Rocks routes to prepare for Epinephrine

Original Post
WookieStick69 Thomas · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 0

Heading out to RR in the next few weeks and am wondering if anyone can recommend some good routes to help prepare for an Epinephrine ascent maybe spring of next year. More specifically, I don't have a ton of chimney experience so I'd love to work some routes that allow me to practice those techniques at a slightly lower grade 5.6-5.8. Any reccos would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098

The epi Chimneys employ a lot of general crack technique and not too much pure chimney. But you will still want to do some chimney practice. Go do some wide cracks on the front range like this one up in the South St. Vrain:
mountainproject.com/v/rawhi…

Or Lumpy has some great chimney stuff to get you ready like Kors Flake or Tigers Tooth or Osiris.

Other than that I would just do some big moderate days with 10-12 pitches of 5.8 and 5.9 in eldo to get used to the length of the route.

It's such a great climb, you will love it!! Have fun!

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676

Once you work your way through the 5.6-5.8 warm-ups, give Black Widow Hollow a shot on Mescalito in Red Rock.

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

I did epi without much chimney experience. I did lots of wall sits in preparation. That helped. The chimneys still felt pretty burly though.

sarcasm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 445

How about Epinephrine?
I'm pretty sure with double 60's you could rappel at any point prior to leaving the top of the black column. So, head in there, do the couple easy pitches which bring you to the start of the chimneys. Work on them, as high as you want, and then leave. Plus, at that point you'll have the approach dialed in, you'll know exactly what you're in for, etc.
Then we you send the route just know you have like another 1000 feet of .8 and .9.
Of course, just don't get in people's way while you're up there.

Idk, this may be bad advice, but it seems ok to me.

ASE · · Ferndale, WA · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

I thought Tunnel Vision was a good intro to RR chimneys. If that doesn't feel too bad, Community Pillar is a good next step. In comparison, Epi will feel less complicated.

portercassidy · · UT/CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 66

Go do some tight canyoneering to prepare for the chimney pitches.

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Speaking of canyoneering....
nps.gov/zion/learn/news/can…

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
John Hegyes wrote:Once you work your way through the 5.6-5.8 warm-ups, give Black Widow Hollow a shot on Mescalito in Red Rock.
Maybe the other way around; BWH has some serious squeeze on it. :)

I led almost all of Epi for the first time with very little chimney experience. It wasn't so bad and you end up climbing hand and fist crack systems in the back of the chimney for a lot of it. It's a super fun route.

Adding: the W Chimney on Green Mountain Pinnacle in the Flatirons would be good practice.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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