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Manolo the father of modern free climbing....

Original Post
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

Anyone know that Maurizio Zanolla Aka " Manolo" is an Italian 50 something years old that invent practically free climbing as we see it today, it was the first to put on a pair of stretch pants and a pair of sneakers to climb without rope, check him out on YouTube or Internet,,,, a piece of history of our sport...the grate Manolo was doing grades in the 70's 80' that nobody was even thinking possible at the time, Grazie Manolo.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Wolverine wrote:Anyone know that Maurizio Zanolla Aka " Manolo" is an Italian 50 something years old that invent practically free climbing as we see it today, it was the first to put on a pair of stretch pants and a pair of sneakers to climb without rope, check him out on YouTube or Internet,,,, a piece of history of our sport...the grate Manolo was doing grades in the 70's 80' that nobody was even thinking possible at the time, Grazie Manolo.
I think it's an exaggeration that he "practically invented free climbing," but he sounds like a phenom.
Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

He invented modern free climbing without rope? Doesnt free climbing by definition require the use of rope?

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

Guys all I can say is go in Internet and do your research there is tons of info about Manolo,,,

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

There is probably also a definition of free climbing.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Wolverine wrote:Guys all I can say is go in Internet and do your research there is tons of info about Manolo,,,
wow, interesting thread...
rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

Google translate of Italian Wiki page.
it.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mau…

Weren't the masters of stone in Yosemite Valley, doing the same thing around that time?

Manolo began climbing at the age of 17 years and has always favored climbing plate or the vertical, rather than on cliffs. Its technical development through the use of increasingly small footholds, very precarious balance on routes with guards often "psychological", thus emphasizing the climbing global, not only physical but also mental then.

In 1977 'he liberated' the Cassin route to Torre Trieste (6c) and the Grand Capucin Bonatti. In 1978, in a month he opened 28 routes, including 'The piazaroi' on Top of the Madonna to the Pale di San Martino (7b). At the end of the seventies it opened routes in the mountains with degrees and strict protections for its time as "Lizard Schizophrenic" in Totoga in 1979 (9 nails, up to 6b) or "Supermatita" Sass Maor in 1980 (7 nails, up to 6b). [1]

In cliff rises among the first in the world with the highest levels "The Morning of the Magicians" 7c + in 1981 in Totoga and 8b Last Movement in 1986 (also the first Italian 8b). The 8c comes with the first ascent of The Dream in Noana Valley in 1991 and then repeated in 2001 street Rolando Larcher, 1992 The Art of Getting High in a Celva . [2] In 1998 salt Appigli Ridiculous in cliff of Baule, first graded 8b and then ninth after the closure of two artificial holes in 2001. [3] In 2006, at age 48, salt his first 9a, Bain de Sang cliff in the Swiss Saint-Loup, because of Fred Nicole 1993. [4] In 2008, at age 50, always in Saint-Loup Bimbaluna salt, route of 9a + François Nicole 2004. [5]

In 1984 he carried out the first repeat of the 'way through the fish' in Marmolada. It dates back to 1993, the first ascent of the street 'Nureyev' Sass Maor with nailing the top (8th)

In the mountains opened up and released long routes of high difficulty like Dogs Dead on Pale di San Martino with Riccardo Scarian in 2004 [6] and only for old warriors on Feltre Peaks in 2006. [7]

August 24, 2009 at 51, spikes and free "Eternit" the way was born the continuation of "O you have it ... or you need" in the cliff of Baule. The proposed grade is 9a but above all Manolo this is a way that opens the vertical slab climbing to another dimension.

Bashful, Manolo lives his passion for climbing in a personal, philosophical and romantic. It is nicknamed The Wizard.

will smith · · boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 35

Have you ever heard of a guy named JOHN GILL???

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Histo…

Not even close to the first...
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247

Thanks rocknice this is what I'm talking about, he open a new understanding of climbing and a new wave movement of different climbers, I hope yo all enjoy this, just to understand where we all coming from,,, ciao to all Peace

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
will smith wrote:Have you ever heard of a guy named JOHN GILL???
I will check him out, but this is not a competition of names,,, lol
Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330
Jake Jones wrote:You've just been trollanored. Congrats.
I think you're off the mark, just seems like an enthusiastic noob to me. And yes, Manolo was a badass but so were many others during that time period.
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
Glenn Schuler wrote: I think you're off the mark, just seems like an enthusiastic noob to me. And yes, Manolo was a badass but so were many others during that time period.
Ok I do not mean to exclude anyone from the scrap book, but he was an important piece of the puzzle,,,
Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

There is actually a giant mural of Manolo in Arco, with the exact same wording as the headline of this thread.

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330
Wolverine wrote: Ok I do not mean to exclude anyone from the scrap book, but he was an important piece of the puzzle,,,


All good man, every culture has their hero's of rock climbing. Americans have Bachar, Japan has Yuji, East Germany (formerly) has Berndt Arnold etc, etc.

BTW, welcome to Mountain Project.

Edit: I was responding to Jake's comment.
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
the schmuck wrote:There is actually a giant mural of Manolo in Arco, with the exact same wording as the headline of this thread.
Cool I didn't know that, I'll check it out txs man...
Avedis Kalpaklian · · Joünié · Joined Feb 2021 · Points: 0

Hello, 

I have heard that Manolo came to Lebanon and did the traverse of mount Lebanon north to south on skis he also climbed on the roman columns of Baalbek Temple, any publication about this we would really appreciate knowing what Manolo did in Lebanon, please u can send to kalpaklian@gmail.com

best 

Avedis Kalpaklian

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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