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Pro's fluff'n their resume?

Original Post
ben jammin · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 852

I'd be interested if other people notice pro climbers coming to their home crag, getting on the hard stuff, and upgrading it for the mags or their athlete FB page. Can we really trust sponsored climbers ratings? I mean, on-siting 14a is wayy cooler than 13d (sarcasm).

jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

Examples pls

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Hmmm... how bout Cesare Maestri., Cerro Torre ;)

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

I see plenty of pros or semi pro climbers that are no better than your average weekend warrior. The only difference is they are good at self promotion or have friends in the industry. I also know plenty of climbers that are absolute bone crushers and you will never hear about them because they are out there getting it done for the pure joy of climbing and don't care about any form of recognition.

Gene S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

I regularly upgrade 5.7s to 5.8.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Nah, upgrade if you can't send, downgrade when you do!

Or maybe that's just what us amateurs do.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I know what you mean I know this 14c that I can get halfway up the route... So i can put that I can almost climb a 14c right? even though It is probably at worst an 11+ up to that point right???

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635

Doesn't happen at the NRG very much. Every pro climber who comes here gets bouted on at least one 5.12, and more than a few have gotten "really bummed" and "just not psyched" on the sandbagged grades and terrible weather, leaving back for Colorado with no big ticks. They mostly just come, tick Proper Soul, and leave it at that. To this date, no 5.14s have been OS'd except for Proper, and no female has sent harder than 5.13b.

Megos is coming in a couple weeks. Psyched to see how he does.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Pnelson wrote:more than a few have gotten "really bummed" and "just not psyched" on the sandbagged grades and terrible weather, leaving back for Colorado with no big ticks.
Didn't Nick Duttle came for a month & sent 10 5.14s? Of course, unlike most climbers, he pats his hands w/ moisture instead of wiping it away.
Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
reboot wrote: Didn't Nick Duttle came for a month & sent 10 5.14s? Of course, unlike most climbers, he pats his hands w/ moisture instead of wiping it away.
Yes.

dpmclimbing.com/articles/vi…

Siegrist came in and had a really strong couple trips as well, and Jimmy Webb had a fairly unpublicized trip here last year.

But, all these guys had to make multiple trips here to get the style dialed. Unlike, say, the RRG, where it is common for crushers just to drop in and dominate the place, at the NRG you have to pay your dues.
TBlom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 360

I thought all pros traveled with an entourage of fluffers?!

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Not really, unless you count upgrading something because of hold breakages or things like that.

Honestly I can't say I pay much attention to grades that far above my head though. Most of the V-double-digit stuff just looks straight up impossible to me -- I'll leave the nuances to the pros

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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