20 kN
·
Oct 2, 2015
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,346
bearbreeder wrote: using a dry rope all the time will result in the rope sheath no longer being "dry" in 100-200 pitches ..
Maybe 100-200 pitches of ice... Dry coatings dont last for crap. I have completely smoked the dry coating on a new rope in 14 days climbing in Red Rocks. I prefer not to buy the dry coating option if I have a choice. It adds substantial cost to the rope (about $40 for a 60m compared to a non-dry version), but provides nearly no worthwhile benefit for me.
Trevor
·
Oct 3, 2015
·
Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 830
20 kN wrote: Maybe 100-200 pitches of ice... Dry coatings dont last for crap. I have completely smoked the dry coating on a new rope in 14 days climbing in Red Rocks. I prefer not to buy the dry coating option if I have a choice. It adds substantial cost to the rope (about $40 for a 60m compared to a non-dry version), but provides nearly no worthwhile benefit for me.
Although the sheath dry treatment does generally wear off quickly climbing on rock, I have noticed that my ropes that have dry treated cores do seem to handle better for longer. So if I'm going to spring for a dry rope, it's going to be a fully dry treated one, and not just a treated sheath.
So if it lands in the puddle or the ocean/river/lake when you rap it wont get as waterlogged and swell up
If you do a lot of fall/winter/spring climbing in rainy squamish and whip all the time it may be something to consider ... Or if u climb sea/lake/river cliffs
Otherwise in dryer areas its fairly irrelevant
I have dry ropes which i use for where it matters, not general cragging
I have that Edelweiss Element II 10.2mm (also got it on sale at backcountry). I've been using it, though not hard, for a few years and it's been pretty good. Still pretty soft and supple after a good amount of TR. Cleans up pretty well in the wash. Definitely a strong candidate for a crag beater, which is what I got it for.
I recently bought a mammut 10.0 galaxy classic as it's future replacement.
I have mammut phoenix 8.0 twins that I save for alpine type stuff or crag routes where I specifically want 2 ropes for rappels or have a team of 3.
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