Old Anchors and Tat at Indian Creek (compiling a list of anchors that need upgrades)

I think a bunch of stuff at the reservoir wall could use some help.

I think Gurka, Middle Crack etc, have a bunch of tatty/wacky anchors.

Thanks for fixing things up! Also make sure to look at the MP.com pages.

I've written up a few that I've updated or need updating.

If you go to Optimator bring some spray paint. I replaced some chains but didn't have any paint. Same for Heat Searcher on Broken Tooth. Hardware is solid but high viz.

- Luke

Alex Baker wrote:What are you guys replacing old anchors with?

We are using 1/2 inch. expansion bolts three inches long. The same ones in the pic. above with the quarter inch bolts. We also use chains, quicklinks and rings. Definitely spray paint the shiny hardware with maroon-ish paint so that its not easily visible from the road.

This list is growing by the day. Thanks for everyone that has reached out. There's definitely plenty of work that needs to be done out there.

peace,
Luke

The rap stations off hummingbird spire need some love. Scary watching those old pitons flex in their holes...

The anchors of Technicolor on technicolor wall. I believe they are old pitons. Thanks a lot Luke!

Moved to 'Southern Utah/Deserts'.

Greg G wrote: New bolts are on this route as of last weekend. They're placed above the pre-existing machine bolts, and bomber. Unfortunately the machine bolts look to be difficult to remove so they're still there, but not hurting anyone.

That's great, thanks!

Another found yesterday, top of second pitch mountainproject.com/v/unkno… has another headless weird unknown clove hitched stud, and bolt with aluminum angle hanger. I replaced the accumulation of tat, but going top have to buy a drill and some bolts to carry at the creek I reckon.

another route that could use some minor work - slot machine. the chain at the top is connected between to bolts that are sort of diagonally configured. when rapping, the chain rotates the lower hanger and it is starting to pull the bolt out (i fixed it the best i could, but it will do it again).

maybe disconnect the chain from the lower bolt, and then add 2 quicklinks to the lower bolt.

Does "Jews on Crack" still have a stopper on a bolt for the anchor? Might be fine, it never gets climbed.

How about throwing some chains on the Metolious Short Bus hangers on the Optimator?

Wee Doggie...lots of tat and no chains we threw in a bail biner to back up the tat but didn't have a knife to remove the junk.

I recall Jolly Rancher didn't look too pretty last spring. Such a classic route really deserves a modern anchor! ( keep the classic Hong angle hanger there for sure though)

Drainpipe at Donnelly needed new anchors back in October when I climbed it.

"No excuse" on res wall right of "excuse station" had a horrible anchor a year ago when I climbed it

+1 for to skin a cat at cat wall! that tat is crispy

Unnamed 10+ left of Fuel injected hard body at Donnelly. Fun varied climb. needed anchor as of 2011.
Unnamed 5.9 shares anchor with unnamed 5.12, at Technicolor. as of 2011.

Now that Creek season is about to be upon us I wanted to bump this thread.

Plenty of these routes that were posted up have been upgraded. If you're interested in doing some upgrades feel free to email me, and I can share the master list.

Please continue to use this thread as a resource so we can remove tat, and replace sketchy anchors.

One thing I've noticed lately is the really popular routes that get toproped a ton start to become loose in the rock, especially those that are overhanging like Annunaki (which was upgraded last year)

Keep the good info. coming folks and see you out in the desert this fall!

word,
Luke
lukemehall@gmail.com

Hi Luke,

Really great that you're doing this, thank you.

I posted to this page
mountainproject.com/v/south…
back in the spring...there's no comment below mine, perhaps it has been addressed, I'm not sure...short version one of the two rap bolts on the "main" summit of South Sixshooter was movable in its hole when we were up there.

Thanks again!
David

Lieutenant Uhuru at Scarface Wall has two lovely angles and a nice bolt, but could use chain. I added the blue cord 2 years ago to back up the yellow. I climbed it earlier this month and it was as I left it. Perhaps it doesn't get much traffic or sun.

Also there is a shorter/easier route right of Black Uhuru that has faded tat as well. Definitely a candidate for chain as it might be the easiest route at the wall. Ledgey crack with anchors hidden back on ledge. Possibly could use updated hardware to reduce rope drag/scaring on rock.

David: Thanks! I'll be sure to spread the word about those South Six Shooter bolts. I noticed that one was sketchy a while back, but haven't returned to fix it. I might be able to get up there next weekend and fix it...

And Justino: thanks for the beta on those Scarface routes that need some love. I'll add them to the master list.

peace,
Luke

Unnamed twin finger cracks between "Wild Works of Fire" and "IHC" @ Supercrack has an anchor w/ good tat but it's all attached to 2 pitons that are halfway pulled out. I don't know if the route see's much traffic because it somehow got overlooked in the guidebook, but I did recently submit it to MP here: mountainproject.com/v/unnam…

Luke Mehall wrote:David: Thanks! I'll be sure to spread the word about those South Six Shooter bolts. I noticed that one was sketchy a while back, but haven't returned to fix it. I might be able to get up there next weekend and fix it... And Justino: thanks for the beta on those Scarface routes that need some love. I'll add them to the master list. peace, Luke

Thanks Luke, very cool that you are doing, is there a way to support it? Donate to asca or something?