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Routes in Main Face
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Captain's Crack (Exotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Heavy Weather T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kiss Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ladybug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peregrination T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | S.Maciejowski, T. Peckham 9/1/2014 assisted also by T. Okeefe |
| Page Views: | 1,318 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Seth Maciejowski on Sep 22, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore |
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Description
P1 - 120' 5.10c 5.7 PG13 - Look for a bolt about 20' up juggy, dirty face climbing. Follow three bolts up to a 5.8 slab section and a shallow ledge with a juggy flake. Clip a bolt and pull a roof onto hollow holds. Beware of a loose quartz hold at the roof. Move up and left on hollow flakes to a bolt and continue trending up and left on 5.6/7 terrain to the big roof. Make an exposed clip (slightly runout) over the roof and pull the roof to a stance.
Climb past 3 more bolts to a spacious belay ledge. Belay off gear and a prominent birch tree. Move right 20' to rap from the anchor on "Heavy Weather" or head up P2.
P2 - 5.6 80' Climb up the crack directly off the belay to a bushy corner. Continue up dirty cracks to nice big ledge. Continue up a nice licheny face above for 30' or so with decent small gear to a top out on big holds. Rappel to the anchor on top of Heavy Weather from a big white pine (no fixed slings at this time).
Climb past 3 more bolts to a spacious belay ledge. Belay off gear and a prominent birch tree. Move right 20' to rap from the anchor on "Heavy Weather" or head up P2.
P2 - 5.6 80' Climb up the crack directly off the belay to a bushy corner. Continue up dirty cracks to nice big ledge. Continue up a nice licheny face above for 30' or so with decent small gear to a top out on big holds. Rappel to the anchor on top of Heavy Weather from a big white pine (no fixed slings at this time).
Location
Approach via the main wall at double upper of
climb cadet's corner and move on to the ledge at the base of the main wall. The start is right of Ladybug and NightCrawlers. Don't be perturbed by the climbing low on the route as the crux is fun and well protected and there is plenty of fun face climbing on most of P1.
climb cadet's corner and move on to the ledge at the base of the main wall. The start is right of Ladybug and NightCrawlers. Don't be perturbed by the climbing low on the route as the crux is fun and well protected and there is plenty of fun face climbing on most of P1.
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