PSA: Sticky Fingers

We climbed the first pitch this weekend. The route took some fire from the rockfall last summer. The very bottom is missing a chunk. There used to be a finger pocket, now it's a side pull/crimp. There are several scars now that are good foot placements at the bottom. I don't know that the difficulty has changed, someone else might have a more authoritative opinion. The first pitch anchor is gone and the chimney/ slot is smashed to shit. There is still a manky rap anchor that held us, but is not inspiring. The second pitch looks like the bolts took some damage. I did not check closely. That pitch looks horrifying to me at the best of times.

TL:DR First pitch still climbs great, anchor is crap. Go and get it.

cannon?

Looks to be so, didn't that anchor just get replaced when the second pitch was retro'd

3rd piece fell out

Yes, Cannon. Sorry that wasn't clear. The rockfall was last year, midsummer. I don't know when the second pitch was retro'd. The anchor was a sideways nut and an old angle with tat and a nice rap ring in the chimney that goes up the buttress. The blocks in the buttress are pretty smashed up and aren't great for finding gear.

nhclimber I think John is referring to the 1st pitch anchors not the "new" bolted anchors at the end of the second pitch. The rockfall last year was pretty large with pretty extensive shredding of the trees and shubbery at the base of the climb. The impact seemed confined to the face of the climb. Didn't appear to be any impact in the "chimney/slot" area at the end of the first pitch. Perhaps there has been a second fall that impacted that area.

There are several scars now that are good foot placements at the bottom. Haven't climbed it since the big rock fall. Maybe now I can get up the thing without getting spit out 2 or 3 times on the first pitch.

I'm not super familiar with the route myself, but I'd be surprised if the chimney/slot wasn't affected much by the rockfall. It all looks freshly smashed up. Lots of loose blocks and such. It faces the ideal direction for catching a lot of falling rock. We did get a nut anchor and I'm sure better anchors could be had. I didn't love the rap anchor.

I climbed it this summer (2015). I bailed to the chimney on the right because the bolts looked suspicious on the face 2nd pitch (and because I'm a wuss). But my partner followed up the face, and I think he saw that one or more bolts were struck by the rockfall.

The chimney was fine.

The rap anchor at the end of the 2nd pitch looked suspicious from rockfall damage so we down-climbed to the top of slow and easy and rapped from there.