NC Climbing Trip Beta

I could use some help from any NC climber willing to share...

First week of October my wife is attending a work related conference in Boone, NC, which she is flying to, and I will drive separately from NJ and meet her towards the end of it. We were planning on dovetailing her work trip into a climbing trip, but neither of us have ever climbed in NC before and was hoping some locals might be able to offer some insight. So here we go...

1. Opinions on best places to climb near Boone, and must do climbs for those areas? Or the rest of the state for that matter since we will be driving amd making our way back north anyway. (Was looking at Rumbling Bald and Looking Glass Rock)

2. Any potential weather issues that would restrict climbing this time of year in any specific location? Several years back i went to Looking Glass during the summer and got rained out the entire trip. Figure this time of year should be good just about anywhere, but your experience may vary.

3. Best guidebook to cover as many areas as possible? I saw a NC select guidebook somewhere online, which got pretty bad reviews. For my purposes, since we won't be able to spend more than a few days at any one location, it does not need to be super comprehensive, just a highlight of the areas should be adequate.

4. If I am driving down separate, and wanted to stop on my way and try to get some climbing in, where would be the best crag to stop and try to troll for a partner?

5. On the way back home we may be stopping to see family near the NC/VA border. Suggestions for the best climbing in that area (or maybe Piedemont region)?

About our climbing...
On most rock feel comfortable leading up to 5.10. Usually when hitting new areas and rock type like to get on some of the more moderate climbs to get a feel for it prior to pushing it. Single pitch or multi pitch are both good, but not too interested in the super long approach of an area like LK, at least not on this trip. Not much for bolts, would rather place my own gear.

Thanks in advance for all your help and input, and sorry for the long winded post.

~Kevin

Kevin: Besides Stone Mountain (one hour away) and Moore's Wall (two hours away), there is the Linville Gorge area. Linville Gorge is about an hour away from Boone. Lots of moderates up to true 'hard man' stuff there. Harrison Shull's guide is about the only thing available right now so, bad reviews or no, go ahead and get the most recent version (there are two). If you need a partner, give me a holler. I live about an hour from Boone and can be available most days. I know the area well.

Robert Branch

PS: Weather issues. It is usually dry in Fall. The weather is pleasant and dry that time of year with beautiful fall color. Highs in the 60's, lows around freezing.

RB

Hi Kevin,

You'll do fine with the Lambert/Shull Selected Climbs guidebook as it does cover the highlights and calls out the classics of the areas. Combine it with the beta on MP and you're golden. Weather in October should be really great (rain is always a possibility) at just about any location. In the near Boone area you should consider Linville Gorge, Table Rock, Shortoff and Ship Rock, in addition to the slightly further areas Looking Glass (check out the Nose, South Face climbs - south face dries relatively quickly after a rain) and Rumbling Bald (Cereal Buttress and Flakeview areas). Ship Rock is very close to Boone and might not be a bad place to nab a belay if you are there on a weekend. Moore's Wall would fit the bill for a place near the Piedmont (north of Winston-Salem) to hit on the way back.

Enjoy!
Tom

• October is a great time of the year for climbing in NC.
• The North Carolina Select Climbs is the best overarching resource for all the popular areas in NC. (not sure about those bad reviews - it's a great guide book). So is MP.

---For primo climbing close to Boone---

• Shiprock -- 15-20 min away. Generally steep and well-protected traditional climbing
• Linville Gorge -- 45 min - 1 hour away. A ton of routes throughout the 9 mile canyon. Absolutely beautiful traditional climbing in an amazing setting
• Stone Mt. -- About an hour an 15 min away. Badass runout slab climbing (traditionally protected, a few bolts on most routes but put up ground up, thus traditionally protected by NC standards
• Looking Glass (~2.5 hours south of Boone. I would hit that up after leaving Linville; it's a beautiful drive down HWY221 (or the BRP) -- Another amazing area with traditionally protected slab and crack climbing routes.
• Rumbling Bald -- Around an hour and 45 min away. A little closer to Boone than LG. Generally amazing crack, face and slab climbing. Some bolted/mixed routes and a lot of traditionally protected routes.

I if you want to hit up some climbing when heading back towards VA - I'd suggest Stone Mountain and Moores Wall. Both almost completely opposite in style, one being very steep/overhanging and the other low angle friction slab.

To be quite honest NC is full of just strait up rad, badass, trad climbing. Enjoy

The Select Guide will be just fine for what you want to do. Avoid driving longer distances, go to Linville. You can camp just out of the Table Rock parking area and there is more than enough climbing to keep you busy within walking distance of there. Table Rock, NC Wall, Ampitheatre. Shortoff is a short drive and is fantastic.

Thank you everyone for all the feedback. Robert, I may take you up on the partner offer. As we get closer to October I should have a better feel for specific dates, locations, and such, and willreach out to you then. Until the guidebook arrives I guess I will keep myself busy by reading up more on MP on the locations everyone has suggested.

Thanks again

~Kevin

If you want some of the longest climbs on the east coast laurel knob has some 1000ft+ climbs in that range. Mostly slab climbing. The approach kinda sux about a 5 mile hike downhill to get there and 5 miles back up leaving if you follow the proper route.

Laurel Knob is the best climbing in NC, period, the valley, in which it lies (Panthertown Valley, is called the Yosemite of the east) has many other climbing areas as well. Big Green, Little Green, Blackrock (aka; Woody Wall), Goldspring and Bonus Defeat. L.K. and B.G are moderate- hard route semi big walls (like Cannon in size, but much more slabby and not as fractured, but not not big like out west). The others walls are 1-3pitch moderates. You usually wont see anyone at Goldspring, Woody Wall or Bonus Defeat (Bonus Defeat is a 2-3 star, 3 pitch trad, 5.7-5.8, that very few people climb and is a nice place to get away and climb by yourself) Also great climbing at Old Baldy 3 pitch moderates, trad.

I learned to climb in NC (at Pilot Mountain...woot woot)...Rumbling Bald and Stone Mountain are both amazing, but are south facing and will still be pretty toasty even into October, but if the weathers cool, or its overcast go for either. Stone has some absolute classics (dirty crack to the great arch makes a fun 4 pitch easy day out) or try the Pulpit (5 pitches of sketchy runout 5.8) and the cereal buttress at Rumbling Bald, while popular, is not to be missed. If sport climbing is your thing Pilot Mountain and Crowders down near Charlotte are options. Hit up Grayson Highlands for classic VA Bouldering on your way north.

Also I have recently moved away from NC and this post made me so damn Jealous have fun and be safe!

The North Side of looking glass is suburb. Pisgah national forest is notorious for lots of rain so be prepared to be rained out. Excellent bouldering near rumbling bald topped of with an exceptional Craig. Happy climbing

The North Side of looking glass is suburb. Pisgah national forest is notorious for lots of rain so be prepared to be rained out. Excellent bouldering near rumbling bald topped of with an exceptional Craig. Happy climbing

Thanks again everyone for the beta.

One other question, not necessarily climbing related, amd not a necessity, but would be fun addition to a trip. Anyone have any suggestions for a place with a good local music scene to check out near a climbing venue? Country would be cool, but preferably blue grass. I was in Brevard a while back amd I seem to remember the Main Street in town shutting down on weekends for a musical festival. Anything like that or bars with some live music would be great.

Thanks again.

~Kevin.

(Edited to correct auto correct)

Kevin,

Check out Asheville for music, there's almost always something going on there.

The hound ears leg of the triple crown bouldering comp is also on around the time you will be here. That's a really fun time and a chance to visit an area that is usually not open to climbing. Fun bouldering and a great event, worth checking out if you like to boulder.

Thanks will try to check out Asheville, and not much into bouldering but perhaps the big event will draw some people away from the crowded crags. :)

One more question

Plans changed slightly, and now another friend and his dog are joining us on the trip.

Read on footslogger.com to leave dogs at home at table rock.

Does this mean dogs are not allowed or just difficult acces with a dog?

Thanks in advance

Kevin

Anyone have any suggestions for a place with a good local music scene to check out near a climbing venue? Country would be cool, but preferably blue grass.

If you just go to downtown Boone and walk up and down King Street, there seems to always be someone or multiple people out there picking and singing. That's where Doc Watson discovered Old Crow Medicine Show, playing on the side of King!

I did my first climbing in NC a few weeks ago in the Amphitheater area in Linville Gorge. The Gorge itself is worth the trip just to hike around and explore - a true east coast gem. But holy guacamole, I had the time of my life following up The Daddy, The Mummy, and The Prow. Super moderate, super fun multipitch routes with an awesome hike in. The worst part is the downclimb off the Gorge's rim down to the base of the climbs. But you can avoid it by climbing out on The Prow.

Oh, and October is probably the nicest time of year in North Carolina as far as weather goes - sunny, way less humid, and the colors are incredible.

Had a great trip, even though it was shortened somewhat due to the storm and heavy rain. Thanks everyone for the beta. Did not get a ton of climbing in, but was fun none the less.

Got a day in at Tablerock and did Northridge, White Lightning, Helmet Variation, Tall Climb to Be Good On, and one of the slabby 5.5's although u forget which one. All were a lot of fun, especially WL, although it did feel easy for the grade. The other grades seemed pretty spot on for what I'm used to, but did not expect to find as many bolts as we did.

Day two hiked In To Shortoff. Got a bit of a late start and underestimated the hike in and only had time for one climb. Maginot Line was great, although did feel easy for the grade. Really wanted to get in Dopey Duck and the 10 in the tilted world. Ohh well, that will give a couple of goals for the next visit.

Last day we went to Shiprock and the routes we did there were all great. Edge of a dream, maiden voyage? (5.8 in upper tier), harpoon, and boardwalk. All of these climbs were good clean fun with cool moves and surprising exposure for such short lines.

After that, went to visit with family, so no more climbing. Everyone will always travel from up north to Seneca, The New, and The Red. Don't know why everyone skips over NC, there seems to be a tom of great climbing there, or maybe it's preferred that outsiders stay away?

Again, thanks to everyone that previously offered up beta.

Kevin