Broken Cam thread

There is nothing about those photos or account that would tell me whether this was a failure of cam design or a placement failure.

I'm inclined to suggest if we have a short rope situation (which it reads like that's the case), that size cam, not surprised it blew. Suppose this placement was in limestone.... then absolutely blowing would be almost expected. Be interesting if he gives up more details.

How many times is the OP going to rename this thread?

Bill Kirby wrote:How many times is the OP going to rename this thread?

I only did it once. MP Admins changed it.

bearbreeder wrote:- even a "well placed" micro cam can pull ...

No really. They can't. At least by my definition of "well placed" anyway.

X4s also more than 10% less outward force holding power than rival cams. When it comes to micros I want that stronger holding power. That said, there is little I've seen in all these postings that shows a clear failure due to the design of X4s.

A good question to vaguely gauge the force the cam held before failing is looking at kinking/elongation of the wire loop. I took a whipper on my 00 MasterCam and the elongation of the wire loop was extremely obvious and remained significantly elongated after the fall. Considering the wire loop is the point of failure above the breaking strength this should not be surprising for a piece that is rated for 5kN.

Rob T wrote:Oooh, tell us about TOTEM cams again, how much outward force do they have?!

Your sarcasm doesn't help sensible discussion. (Nor are Totem cams even relevent because they don't come in micro cam sizes!)

patto wrote: No really. They can't. At least by my definition of "well placed" anyway. X4s also more than 10% less outward force holding power than rival cams. When it comes to micros I want that stronger holding power. That said, there is little I've seen in all these postings that shows a clear failure due to the design of X4s. A good question to vaguely gauge the force the cam held before failing is looking at kinking/elongation of the wire loop. I took a whipper on my 00 MasterCam and the elongation of the wire loop was extremely obvious and remained significantly elongated after the fall. Considering the wire loop is the point of failure above the breaking strength this should not be surprising for a piece that is rated for 5kN.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/textbook-cam-placements-can-pull-in-smooth-stone/110064375__1

;)