Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Matthias Holladay; FFA: Ethan Pringle, 2016
Page Views: 10,871 total · 54/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Oct 31, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

The 1st route done on the cliff, an obvious stunning black crack surmounting a severely overhanging wave of stone. Originally climbed on aid, this route was freed by Ethan Pringle in 2015 and may be be one of the hardest traditional routes in California, if not the world. As a free climb, Blackbeard's Tears logically breaks up into 3 sections.

P1: 5.10+, 30', gear to 2", new titanium glue-in anchors. Crux comes pulling a small roof about 10' up.

P2: 5.13c, 80' (from the ground), gear to 1" (mostly 0.2-0.3, many 0.3s), new glue-in anchors. A beautiful, steep finger crack that is a testpiece worth travelling for on its own. Amazing.

P3: 5.14c (?), 120' (from the ground), anchors. Boulder through the roof immediately after the 5.13 anchors (crux) and finish on a short but committing 5.12 exit sequence.

Get some!!!

Protection Suggest change

Singles from 000 - #2. One single Gold DMM offset sized nut for the very top.

Doubles 0.1, 0.2, 0.75, #1

Quads in the 0.3 range. 

An initial inspection / aid rack might be larger and may include up to #4.

Photos

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