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Routes in The Wasteland
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Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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El Chapo S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Guilt Parade S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nostalgie S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Vision Thing S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | A. Nelson, R. Wright |
| Page Views: | 6,276 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jul 10, 2002 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Originally touted as "steeper, longer and harder than The Beast," this route is merely longer. Nevertheless, it's a fun climb up a funky pillar-type feature, and has become pretty popular in recent years.
This is the second route from the right in the Wasteland, and is one route right of Gunshy (more or less the last route on the blue/grey sector of the wall). It has gold-shut bolts on it, and climbs over a small roof to start, then up a groove onto a pillar, and through a second roof to anchors.
Pull over the opening roof on square holds, then amble your way up the groove on cool features. As the angle steepens, the holds get smaller, until you must overcome the roof moves on bizarre pinches.
A second pitch climbs the friable corner above the anchors at 5.11, but is not recommended on busy days due to rockfall potential.
This is the second route from the right in the Wasteland, and is one route right of Gunshy (more or less the last route on the blue/grey sector of the wall). It has gold-shut bolts on it, and climbs over a small roof to start, then up a groove onto a pillar, and through a second roof to anchors.
Pull over the opening roof on square holds, then amble your way up the groove on cool features. As the angle steepens, the holds get smaller, until you must overcome the roof moves on bizarre pinches.
A second pitch climbs the friable corner above the anchors at 5.11, but is not recommended on busy days due to rockfall potential.
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