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Grotto Wall Traverse
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 43
votes
Routes in Lower Grotto Wall
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Before There Were Nine S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cryogenics T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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K - fight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mad Arab T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twins For The Road T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | A. Carter, H. Carter |
| Page Views: | 4,389 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Alvaro Arnal on Jun 5, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a wonderful journey across and up the Lower Grotto Wall. The belay after the 2nd pitch is one of my favorites on the Pass, and the 3rd pitch will have you smiling from beginning to end!
P1: Climb the awkward, often wet, chimney to the slab above and traverse left towards the corner. You will find 2 bolts about 10' from the corner. This pitch is forgettable and can easily be skipped by walking around to the right and traversing back left on the slab to the same belay (starting high and going climbers left on the slab then down-climbing the corner is probably the least risky method). The chimney does has some mildly interesting moves however. 5.8. 50'.
P2: From the anchors, traverse left across a small ledge, ascend a blocky crack to another ledge before reaching the sloping dihedral crux (5.8) below a large birds nest. Be sure to protect your 2nd after completing these crux moves. Traverse hard left, ascend another blocky corner, then scoot around an arete to a black-painted 2-bolt belay on a small ledge. 100', lots of rope drag.
P3: From the belay, walk climbers RIGHT across out on the "diving board" and then up steep but juggy terrain into a right-facing corner. Go above this, traverse right and into a left-facing corner to a 2-bolt belay at the top of the cliff. Incredible pitch! Around 60', some rope drag.
Descent: Your best option is to walk off to the west (climber's left). Two 70 meter ropes will reach the ground as 1 rappel, but because of the overhanging nature of this section of cliff, multiple raps with shorter ropes is not possible.
P1: Climb the awkward, often wet, chimney to the slab above and traverse left towards the corner. You will find 2 bolts about 10' from the corner. This pitch is forgettable and can easily be skipped by walking around to the right and traversing back left on the slab to the same belay (starting high and going climbers left on the slab then down-climbing the corner is probably the least risky method). The chimney does has some mildly interesting moves however. 5.8. 50'.
P2: From the anchors, traverse left across a small ledge, ascend a blocky crack to another ledge before reaching the sloping dihedral crux (5.8) below a large birds nest. Be sure to protect your 2nd after completing these crux moves. Traverse hard left, ascend another blocky corner, then scoot around an arete to a black-painted 2-bolt belay on a small ledge. 100', lots of rope drag.
P3: From the belay, walk climbers RIGHT across out on the "diving board" and then up steep but juggy terrain into a right-facing corner. Go above this, traverse right and into a left-facing corner to a 2-bolt belay at the top of the cliff. Incredible pitch! Around 60', some rope drag.
Descent: Your best option is to walk off to the west (climber's left). Two 70 meter ropes will reach the ground as 1 rappel, but because of the overhanging nature of this section of cliff, multiple raps with shorter ropes is not possible.
Location
From Cryogenics, walk right along the base of the cliff past the smooth shield of rock. The first pitch chimney starts just after the trail turns steeply uphill.
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