Hey all, Headed to Lexington to visit my wife's cousin at the end of October, looking to spend a couple of days climbing. Does anyone have any recommendations of places to climb away from the crowds or is that just the name of the game there? If it helps we're planning on bringing trad gear (comfortable leading up to 5.10) and sport routes into the low 11's and I have the 2 Ellington guide books. Thanks!
If doing mostly trad you won't have a problem with crowds. If you're really looking for less crowded areas, in general stick to the north gorge and avoid muir valley.
If you're hoping to get on some bolted routes, I've found that "New" Zoo stays relatively uncrowded even on busy days elsewhere (including old Zoo), probably in large part because it isn't in the printed guidebooks yet. That would be my suggestion for beating some of the crowd. The best pitches there are in the 12+ range but there are 10 or so 5.10s and 5.11s worth doing.
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