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Best Winter Climbing Location?

Original Post
Marcus H · · Burlington, VT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 50

My friends and I are looking for a spot to climb in the US during the Xmas/New Year's time period and would prefer not to freeze our butts off. Where are the best places in the US to climb in comfort while camping during the winter months? We are mostly interested in copious amounts of sport routes but if you have a great trad, aid or big wall spot in mind go ahead and chime in for the greater good. We already thought of Joshua Tree, Moab, Red Rocks etc. If anyone has specific experience here in the winter months, what could we expect? Thanks for your help!

talkinrocks · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 80

J Tree. Hands down.

Moab can be cold.

Never been to Red Rock, but I hear its stellar.

I also hear the Needles are good that time of year too.

Matt Berrett · · utah · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

Moab is not usually too warm december/january. the temps are usually in the 40s during the day. go further south if you want to find warmer weather.

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

If you're looking for sport climbing I'd browse through some of the areas in New Mexico for a winter destination.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

St George Utah. Lots of sport, good range of sun exposure on multiple crags, near Red Rocks for visits there.

NickMartel · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 1,332

Mt. Lemmon in Tucson AZ. 1500+ routes along 30 mile highway to the top of the mountain. Year round climbing by varying elevation between 3000' and 9000'. Free camping. Nice people. Granite and Gneiss. Plus all accommodations found in a city are 5 min from base and 1 hour from top.
If you are looking for a host/guide/beta PM me.

S.Stelli · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 150
NickMartel wrote:Mt. Lemmon in Tucson AZ. 1500+ routes along 30 mile highway to the top of the mountain. Year round climbing by varying elevation between 3000' and 9000'. Free camping. Nice people. Granite and Gneiss. Plus all accommodations found in a city are 5 min from base and 1 hour from top. If you are looking for a host/guide/beta PM me.
I find this statement to be false. It has to be. Theres no such place. Please don't advertise it. It sounds like heaven - not everyone is invited to heaven. With that said, I'm trying to find time on my winter calendar for a week long visit, I'm gonna be looking you up Nick when I make some time.
Owen Darrow · · Helena, mt · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,790

Red Rocks! Went there in January and had a few days of warm weather climbing before returning to the sleet and hail in Seattle, sooo worth it!

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

Petrero Chico is probably the best winter sport climbing, but it is in Mexico.

T-Wall, Rumbling Bald, and Laurel Knob are all pretty good destinations in the SE during that time of year, but mostly trad. The SE does get its share of rain during that time as well, so it is hit or miss. There is always the best sport climbing crag in Atlanta, Stone Summit if you get rained out.

The SW is still the best for winter climbing in general. Desert dryness with warm conditions. RR has way more sport than JTree.

Abel Jones · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 576

I Just spent this last winter camping/climbing along the Southern US. We didn't dip into Mexico cuz my girls dad didn't want us driving down there (sad). Potrero Chico Mexico is where you are most likely to find the good weather sport climbing. We had a tough time staying in the US because it was a cold winter. many of the places already listed were too cold or had snow on the ground for extended periods. Your best bet is the southwest but you'll have to keep your plans open and be ready to go where the sun is. A couple more spots that we had luck: Cochise stronghold... Actually lotsof high quality well protected sport and some of the best camping of our trip. Also warmer than MT lemmon.
Last Chance Canyon NM... Good Sunny Sport Climbing and Camping in the middle of nowhere.
Many of the places already mentioned would be better options if the weather cooperates. If it's sport you're stoked on then try to make your trip to Red Rocks although the camping isn't stellar (read sucks). You can also sport climb at Owen's river gorge and camp fairly comfortable near by all winter, again just depends on your luck.

Kyle Judson · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 15

If you're in Colorado check out Shelf Road. There's thousands of routes and some of the crags stay in the sun most of the day. Cactus Cliff gets sun all day and Menses gets great morning sun. I left 15degrees and 14inches of fresh snow on the ground (in Crested Butte) last February to find 50 to 60degrees and bluebird skies at Shelf. It will still get cold at night if you're camping. Depending on the month I'd expect nighttime lows well below freezing... It is high Colorado desert after all. That's my preferred winter sport climbing area around Colorado. For you skiers out there, I know it seems weird to leave such a gorgeous powder day just to pull the limestone pockets at shelf... Don't judge me. I had plenty of deep days this last winter and sometimes you just need to climb ya know?

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

+1 for Mt. Lemmon and Cochise. J-tree doesn't have much sport and while temps are OK during the day, as soon as the sun goes down you will FREEZE.

Your best bet for winter sport climbing is Mexico, esp. Potrero Chico--long bolted routes up to 23 pitches, cheap or free camping.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

As a long time JT climber, I'll echo the notion that it can get cold for extended periods during the winter. You'll be able to find some sun and get some climbing in no doubt, but the greater part of your trip will likely be spent trying to stay warm.

I'd chime in for Mt. Lemmon and Cochise, although the wife and I once spent the week between Xmas and New Years there (Cochise) and our sun shower froze solid. Some of the gullies iced up, which rained down on you when the sun came out. It actually kind of sucked.

kellyjennifers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

Mt. Lemmon and Cochise.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

You should always go where the climbing and the weather meet in the middle. There aren't really any great sport areas that are available that time of year unless you go to Mexico, but there is excellent trad climbing and bouldering and several options for both. Going to S. Arizona or SoCal and only sport climbing would be a mistake.

Two other areas that seem to have winter scenes are Bishop and Chattanooga.

Pretty much all areas in the US are subject to winter storms and will more than likely hit the 30's at some point during your trip. Go to Mexico!

Brice Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

The Organs (near las cruces, NM) could keep you busy for a winter and there's pretty much everything you can imagine, plus Cochise only being a half day drive away means you can run away when it gets too cold for a few days. Most of the climbing is run-out slab on 1/4" bolts from the 70's. You'll need a rack, a pair of Depends, and some good footwork. The approaches are heinous. All that adds up to stellar granite that is rarely visited by people, plenty of routes to be found. You'd want to be very confident in the 5.10 slab range to have much fun.

Day trips to Hueco can be had as well. Free camping is easy and plentiful. 4x4 helps to shorten a few of the approaches. Las Cruces is right there for easy grocery runs. Plenty of day hikes for rest days.

yeego · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 35

Cochise Stronghold is my favorite winter climbing area. I've been going there the past 4 years, and have NOTHING bad to say about the area. Trad, multipitch, sport, low crowd, great hiking, warm weather, and ghost towns; it has it all. Saw my 1st cougar in AZ there, the eastern side, by Owl Rock. Though, it is quite a drive for me, 6+ hours, it is well worth it.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

Marcus,

I know you wanted to stay in the US (why?) but if you guys can come up with airfare, Cayman Brac is a great destination. Great climbing, safe, english speaking, uncrowded and spectacular. climbcaymanbrac.com

And yes, I know this is self-promotion but how else to let climbers know?

John

Aaron Olson · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 5

+1 for Joshua Tree. My buddy and I were there this weekend climbing with our shirts off. I don't know of another place, on the west coast at least, where you can do that right now. Also, it is super cheap and super easy as far as logistics.

mikehilbert · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 1,324

Regarding Mt. Lemmon, if you want good winter sport routes, check the following low lying, sunny areas. These areas are all prolific in the amount and adequate to very good in the quality of sport routes offered, while providing sunny warmth when it's freezing virtually everywhere else...
Milagrosa - 20 minute easy approach
mountainproject.com/v/la-mi…
Hairpin - 10 min easy approach
mountainproject.com/v/backh…
The Ruins - 25 min steep approach
mountainproject.com/v/the-r…
Prison Camp - 15 min easy approach
mountainproject.com/v/priso…
Boot Hill - 15 min steep approach
mountainproject.com/v/boot-…
Sun Spots - 15 min steep approach
mountainproject.com/v/sun-s…
Forgotten Wall - 25 min approach
mountainproject.com/v/forgo…
Cochise Stronghold is 1:30 away from Tucson and is also amazing.

SRB25 · · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

New Years in J tree 2014/15 was 25-35 degrees in the sun but can be warm also. The very next month yosemite was almost 70 degrees in the valley. Weather depending of course. Red rocks or Mt Lemmon sound like good alternatives if not California. Owens river gorge is sport Mecca also and has a lifetime worth of bouldering and hotsprings easily accessible. Pretty cool little town also.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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