Yosemite Guidebook

If you don't like Supertopo (which I think could keep you busy for a month), try this:
amazon.com/Yosemite-Climbs-…

It has a lot more routes and most is well described.

Supertopo is best for finding/getting to the crags, but I'd stick with the Reid guide for the climbs themselves. Much more comprehensive. Use this site as well especially for the lower elevation climbs (aka Parkline slabs) because there's been a lot of development that is not in either book.

Don Reid guide for sure, check the supertopo site for recent activity. Supertopo books are pretty awful but the site does have more information on the park than anywhere else(sorry MP)..

Jack Cramer wrote: The supertopo guides come to mind but I was not super impressed by the tuolumne or lake tahoe editions. I am also not pysched on having to blow ~100 bucks on 4 guidebooks for what would be one book and 40 bucks anywhere else. I don't mean to hate on Mr. McNamara but I would prefer a comprehensive text.

A comprehensive text on The Valley, Toulumne and Tahoe would be about the size of a phone book and cost way more then $40.

You could also use Mountainproject.com as a source. That site tends to have some good beta amoung all the spew.

Both the Reid and Chris Mac books are great.

I was never a valley local, but I did live there for six months. During my time a beer and a friendly attitude could usually get you the information you needed around Camp 4 or at the deli.

I think that alot depends on what grade you want to climb and how much adventure you want. I was given Chris Mac's Valley Free Climbing guide and I think that it is great. However, it mostly covers 5.10 and easier routes. It also tends to remove a bit of the adventure as it does detail the routes quite well. As a side note, the Steve Roper stories are tough to beat. It is great fun to read about the FA and then go and repeat the climb with modern gear and shoes. Chris' first book, about Valley Big Walls, came out while I was living there. The detail it provided was really nice.

If you want to climb harder or have a bit more adventure then hunt for Reid's book. It covers a ton more but in less detail.

Have a great time and climb safe.

Supertopo (Yosemite Valley Free Climbs) is the one to get for the Yosemite Valley. Also, super convenient to buy the PDF, print, stuff in a binder and pull only the pages you need per each day of climbing. The Reid book is more comprehensive but less detailed and a bit outdated. See my tick list if you want any specific beta on routes that I've done.

Meyers guide

I think you made the right call. If needed, browse the Supertopo in the Mt. Shop to see if there's anything new you'd like to try. If you're doing a wall, just make a handwritten copy from someone's guide. I think every wall I've done in the Valley was with a hand copied sheet in my pocket. Ask around and you should get good beta about rack recommendations, etc.

Have fun.

Yeah, I'm one of the Supertopo authors and I admit that the multiple guide situation isn't the best. But no one combines Yosemite and Tuolumne, each area is huge. Supertopos concentrate on topos - so they rapidly get very bulky with multipitch, walls, etc. Detailed descriptions and history text add to the size as well. And a whole lot of people just boulder, just aid climb, or just free climb. Particularly aid climbing - it is a very small subset even among hard core rock climbers.

Some of the new guidebooks like Handren's are awesome, particularly for the experienced climber, but you have to admit they are pretty light on beta, especially detailed topos. For visiting climbers select guides like Supertopos can be really nice. Try climbing in Yosemite with nothing but the Reid guide (particularly for 5.10 and below ratings) and you will rapidly learn a lot (such as a huge distrust of the phrase: Pro to 3"). And due to publisher issues the Reid guide is very out-of-date - the next Valley guide will be a phone book even without walls and bouldering.

As far as the Yosemite area stuff Supertopos - different authors, written at different time periods in the past 10+ years. Trying to assemble all those into comprehensive volumes would end up with a phone book. Wait a few more years then the closer-to-comprehensive ones will be downloadable into your flexible crushable waterproof hand-size smartphone, and this will all be a moot point!

Greg Barnes wrote:Yeah, I'm one of the Supertopo authors and I admit that the multiple guide situation isn't the best. But no one combines Yosemite and Tuolumne, each area is huge. Supertopos concentrate on topos - so they rapidly get very bulky with multipitch, walls, etc. Detailed descriptions and history text add to the size as well. And a whole lot of people just boulder, just aid climb, or just free climb. Particularly aid climbing - it is a very small subset even among hard core rock climbers. Some of the new guidebooks like Handren's are awesome, particularly for the experienced climber, but you have to admit they are pretty light on beta, especially detailed topos. For visiting climbers select guides like Supertopos can be really nice. Try climbing in Yosemite with nothing but the Reid guide (particularly for 5.10 and below ratings) and you will rapidly learn a lot (such as a huge distrust of the phrase: Pro to 3"). And due to publisher issues the Reid guide is very out-of-date - the next Valley guide will be a phone book even without walls and bouldering. As far as the Yosemite area stuff Supertopos - different authors, written at different time periods in the past 10+ years. Trying to assemble all those into comprehensive volumes would end up with a phone book. Wait a few more years then the closer-to-comprehensive ones will be downloadable into your flexible crushable waterproof hand-size smartphone, and this will all be a moot point!

I agree that combing any of the bouldering and aid climbs with free climbs would not make sense. I have to say I like the PDF concept and ability to print 3 pages, take with me and not having to make copies from a bound book. Valley Classics is a great guide.
I suggested the Reid book because it gives you more options, i.e. less crowded routes and stuff at higher ratings. If you are a 5.10 and sub climber, the ST Valley Classics should keep you busy for a month, I would think.

My 2 cents - Supertopo makes it easy to navigate your way to and up the classics, which is great..

The Yosemite Valley is a pretty beautiful and inspiring place with spectactular climbing, I reckon there's an opportunity to produce a more 'coffee table' like comprehensive guide with color photo's, detailed topo's. history etc. I for one would be psyched to shell out $60+ to have something on my coffee table with a bit higher production quality than what's on the market now. Why is the Handren Red Rocks guidebook like 4x sweeter than any of the Yosemite Valley ones? Doesn't make sense to me.

Colin, a comprehensive guide is in the works for the valley. It's been a while and I don't know when it's supposed to be finished but if they really include the 3400+ climbs it'll be pretty amazing!

limpingcrab wrote:Colin, a comprehensive guide is in the works for the valley. It's been a while and I don't know when it's supposed to be finished but if they really include the 3400+ climbs it'll be pretty amazing!

I for one am psyched for a new Yosemite guide to come out.