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2015 Alpine Rock Conditions

Hector P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

My partner and I are travelling to RMNP for the first time next week (we're from South Africa) with our sights set on the Diamond and possibly one or two of the other big alpine faces. Is it worthwhile to bring crampons and/or axes for the approaches?
Also, does anyone have the latest on:
- The Casual Route
- Pervertical
- Ariana. Does anyone know if this has been affected by the rockfall near the Obelisk?
Thanks!

Gee Monet · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 732

Looking for possible beta on any snow climbs that might still be in and doable in/near RMNP...

Any grade or steepness, just looking to at least get out and climb something with the pons and axe.

Also don't mind combining it with a rock route.

Thanks.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,175
Gary N wrote:Looking for possible beta on any snow climbs that might still be in and doable in/near RMNP... Any grade or steepness, just looking to at least get out and climb something with the pons and axe. Also don't mind combining it with a rock route. Thanks.
Last month the couloirs in the Ptarmigan area were in pretty well. Could check that out.
phil wortmann · · Colorado Springs, Co. · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 1,186

Some friends and I climbed a couple lines on Pikes Peak this summer that are worth doing for those looking for something beyond the Park. They're located on the Corinthian Column, the block separating Total Abandon and Blind Assumption ice climbs. They are around 400-450 ft in length. Approach via the Hero Traverse. It took awhile to clean out the cracks of moss and choss, and they've cleaned up well. Send!

Three Dragons, 10+/11-?
double rack to 3

Sunnyvale, 5.11 The Razor, 5.12a

single rack

Brian Stevens · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 2,137

If climbing Birds of Fire consider bringing some micro spikes or a small ice axe. As of this past Sunday, August 23 the snow at the base was rock hard in the morning (granted, it was a very cold morning). We made steps with rocks, but it was still kind of sketchy. Route was in great condition!

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
phil wortmann wrote:Some friends and I climbed a couple lines on Pikes Peak this summer that are worth doing for those looking for something beyond the Park. They're located on the Corinthian Column, the block separating Total Abandon and Blind Assumption ice climbs. They are around 400-450 ft in length. Approach via the Hero Traverse. It took awhile to clean out the cracks of moss and choss, and they've cleaned up well. Send! double rack to 3 single rack
Choss. Stay away.
phil wortmann · · Colorado Springs, Co. · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 1,186
J Antin wrote: Choss. Stay away.
Jason, you've foiled my plan to draw Boulder climbers on to the Peak, where they will all await certain death from the Pikes Peak granite! Well played sir.
WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

North Chimney gets worse every year. Yesterday was especially bad.

Do your best to minimize rockfall, which isn't easy in that thing. Had a friend get hit in the head with a rock, luckily he was fine.

Diamond was swarming yesterday

WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

Lots of people coming up Pervertical

Ariana.

JenH · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 145

There is now a fixed rope on the lower eyebolt on the Cable Route, which appears to be there for the winter. It went up this week.

Prametheus · · Teton Valley · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

Pretty late in the game, just curious:
Is the diamond out?

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,175
Prametheus wrote:Pretty late in the game, just curious: Is the diamond out?
The Diamond is never "out." It all depends on your tolerance for misery. From all accounts here and otherwise, the Diamond has been cold, windy with considerable amounts of falling ice.
Prametheus · · Teton Valley · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

thanks andy!

VRP · · Morrison, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

Friend was up on D7 yesterday reporting ice filled cracks FYI.

Kevin Pula · · Denver · Joined May 2012 · Points: 20

Was up on the Diamond yesterday. Saw a little ice fall come down, none came near us. We were on the Casual Route.

Also we found a rope on the COD rappels. It was pretty obviously not left there intentionally and there was only one other party on the wall all day and they had bivyed up on the yellow wall. I'd be happy to get it back to whoever lost it. PM with the type of rope and the pitch it was on and I'll get it back to you.

Micah Lewkowitz · · Ridgway, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Kevin, looks like this is the lost rope you've got.
mountainproject.com/v/left-…

seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

North Ridge of Spearhead was in great shape yesterday. There was some slight snow accumulation on some of the small ledges, but no ice fall or ice in the cracks. The trail from Glacier Gorge to the base of the climb was snow free.

Seth

Maximilian Ritter · · Jackson, WY · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

TR from last weekend on Kiener's...it was mildly to severely icy on Lamb's Slide

maximilianritter.wordpress.…

Robert Buswold · · Northglenn, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 80

Looks like I'm a little late in the season, but I was hoping to get on the Sharkstooth this thursday (Oct 8). I know it's probably not going to be good condition with all the precip lately, but does anyone have any info on it?

Robert Buswold · · Northglenn, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 80

Looks like I'm a little late in the season, but I was hoping to get on the Sharkstooth this thursday (Oct 8). I know it's probably not going to be good condition with all the precip lately, but does anyone have any info on it?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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