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Fav Peterskill Climbs 5.7 - 5.10

Original Post
keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Going up. What are your favorites ranging from some warmups at around 5.7 to some solid 5.10's?

Thanks!

Systematic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 317

Reach Around on Tom's wall (5.8)
The Kling-On on the Enterprise wall (5.7)
The Under Kling-On (5.9) -- easily climbable by moving Kling-On TR anchor right 5'.

All of these have shiny new bolts for easy TR anchor setup.

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Man when I'm climbing at Peterskill I have no clue what I'm on. What guide do you use?

Anthony Spagnolo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Hello I am new to climbing and currently putting together my first gear set , I plan on climbing at the gunks and Peterskill. Any advice on what gear to get for these places would be helpful. Also looking for climbing partners through the month of October.

Also I was reading up on the poison Ivy wall and something about not being able to get to it without trespassing anyone have any info on this ?

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

A cordalette and a couple lockers is fine for a lot of climbs, lots of TR bolts up there, just be aware that the pine trees on the cliff top should not be used for TR anchors, they're a protected species and you might be fined / pass taken away if you use them along with the access issue to climbers

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,781

#1 with a bullet - Golden Dream, 5.9 - I wish it were longer

Also tons of fun:

Psycho Crack Left and Right (both around 5.8)
Skink (height dependent, 5.6-5.8)

Systematic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 317
Medic741 wrote:Man when I'm climbing at Peterskill I have no clue what I'm on. What guide do you use?
MP pages are OK. There's also a nice thin, cheap guidebook. Can't remember the author. Available at Rock and Snow.
jackkelly00 · · Chocorua, NH · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 325

+1 Golden dream 5.9

Dreaming of PJ 5.8

Brandon S · · Weehawken, NJ · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 1
Anthony Spagnolo wrote:Hello I am new to climbing and currently putting together my first gear set , I plan on climbing at the gunks and Peterskill. Any advice on what gear to get for these places would be helpful. Also looking for climbing partners through the month of October. Also I was reading up on the poison Ivy wall and something about not being able to get to it without trespassing anyone have any info on this ?
Poison Ivy is a pretty low quality crag to begin with, regardless of access. Also, I don't think its easy to setup TR from the top if I remember correctly.

Peterskill is a much better option even if it involves an extra hour driving.
keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Anthony. PI wall is ok. I think it's primarily a sport climbing wall. Better off going to Powerlinez. 30 ft of static rope and 30 feet of tube webbing a bunch of lockers and there are tons of TR'ing options. Slings, belay device or gri gri and of course a rope. Make sure to get some guidance and books to study!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Some of my favorites. Routes marked with an * are not in the current guidebooklet but you can find them described in the mp.com route database for Peters Kill. Routes in each grade are listed left to right, and some are toprope only.

Also, there are great pitches at the Dickie Barre cliff ("upper Peters Kill"), including more 5.8s than most folks can climb in a day. But you'd probably have a better time there once the new PK guidebook comes out (hopefully this fall).

5.7's - Acute Corner, First Day, Crack of Resplendent Delights*

5.8's - Anna's Route (but not if you're short, say, under 5-6), East LA*, Portrait of the Artist, Dead Battery*, Psycho Crack Right, Bro Crack* (dirty but fun offwidth), East Pillar*

5.9's - Black Wallpaper*, Lou's Route (not on mp.com but it's the steep face left of i.e. around the corner from, Skink Arete), Golden Dream

5.10's - Old Route (not on mp.com. It's just left of Anna's Route; look for the piton 20' up), arete variation to East LA*, Crack-a-lack, Commencement, Oops, Psychadelic*, Fickle Fingers, Rainy Daze*

As for anchors, folks love the bolt anchors, but these really only cover a small fraction of the routes. Bring 60-80 ft of static rope and you'll be OK with most of the rest.

PI Wall at West Point is pretty much off limits, I've been told. While one always needed "Army approval" to climb there, there really was very little enforcement. But more recently, CSX (the railroad) has decided they've had enough of climbers crowding their tracks there and will do what they do to get you chased off. Even the cadets don't climb there any more.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
Gunkiemike wrote:PI Wall at West Point . . . Even the cadets don't climb there any more.
What's your source for that claim?

I saw five USMA cadets climbing there on a weekday afternoon a few months ago.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
kenr wrote: What's your source for that claim? I saw five USMA cadets climbing there on a weekday afternoon a few months ago.
I asked the cadets' Climbing Coach Strickler what the latest is.

I don't doubt that some cadets are still going there, but it sounds like organized activities of the USMA have moved to other climbing venues.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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