Best J-Tree Intro Trad Areas
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Can anyone recommend a couple of good areas for someone who is new to climbing in Joshua Tree? Me and the misses are headed down for our first time and have found a few options that sound good but would like some input from people who have been there before. From the descriptions and comments it sounds like the ratings are a bit stiff. I'm from SLC and am comfortable climbing Little Cottonwood trad grades of about 5.7 to 5.8 depending on the type of route. I'm also comfortable setting up my own belay stations (LCC Canyon here at home has a lot of bolted belays). Also, what's a recommended "standard rack" for the area? Here at home it's typically a set of stoppers and a full set of cams with doubles on hand sizes (.5 to 1). Thanks in advance for all you're input. Cheers! |
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Have a rack to BD #3 for building anchors. |
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I don't know if they still do it but you could rent a guidebook for the day from the little shop at the entrance to the park. |
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Great areas with lots of moderate routes: |
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Stay away from Double Cross. |
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Take the nice walk out to Mental Physics, it's really good climb with fewer people,5.7 i think and a nice area. |
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Guy, are you trying to get ST members over here. You know they can smell the Double Cross bolt talk through the interweb! :) |
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Joshua Tree moderate traditional routes are usually well protected with a full set of wires, I don't think you'll need to double up on cams, one of each from .38" to number 4 friend. |
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Bonneville wrote:Can anyone recommend a couple of good areas for someone who is new to climbing in Joshua Tree? Me and the misses are headed down for our first time and have found a few options that sound good but would like some input from people who have been there before. From the descriptions and comments it sounds like the ratings are a bit stiff. I'm from SLC and am comfortable climbing Little Cottonwood trad grades of about 5.7 to 5.8 depending on the type of route. I'm also comfortable setting up my own belay stations (LCC Canyon here at home has a lot of bolted belays). Also, what's a recommended "standard rack" for the area? Here at home it's typically a set of stoppers and a full set of cams with doubles on hand sizes (.5 to 1). Thanks in advance for all you're input. Cheers!The grades won't feel any stiffer than LCC. Just use the MP search function and look for routes in your grade range with high star ratings, that should keep you busy for a few years. |
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Chris Owen wrote:Joshua Tree moderate traditional routes are usually well protected with a full set of wires, I don't think you'll need to double up on cams, one of each from .38" to number 4 friend. Really try to use the wires, and hexentrics, keeps your rack light and lets you learn the art.??? wires ?? I think this is a bit of a generalization, don't you ?i have found that many JT moderates need larger cams |
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Good suggestions from Guy. Some of those will feel easy, but are fun and will get you used to the rock. I never found the Thin Wall or Atlantis to be great areas. Grainier and looser than many other places in Josh I think, and now crowded to boot. Try: |
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Guy Keesee wrote:Stay away from Double Cross. That climb has kilt about 5 - 8 climbers.... It needs bolts for safety. .... just pick some climbs with stars. In your pay grade. Start with "The Eye" . "The Upper Right Ski Track" "Double Dogleg" "Young Lust" "Bacon Flake" ..... look those up in GB. That should get you started Have Fun.Ridiculous. Double Cross is a great moderate trad lead that is very well protected and rated at 4.5/5 stars. The only section of that climb that is even mildly dangerous is the start and it's 4th class. There is a bomber nut placement at the beginning of the crack and I bet this topic has been beat to death over the years. The simple fact is the climb is safe as is unless you are sketchy on 4th class or 5.nothing or just like to not protect things for some personal reason. |
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My God.... people have died on Double Cross!!! Its the Eiger of Southern California, and needs to have the Bolts (that a caring climber installed for SAFETY) put back. |
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The Eye (easy) |
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Brian wrote:I don't know if they still do it but you could rent a guidebook for the day from the little shop at the entrance to the park.Brian probably means Nomad Ventures in the town of Twenty-nine Palms. There are multiple entrances do Joshua Tree National Park, not near each other, and in some cases, not connected to other roads within the park. Just clarifying with a couple of details... |
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Guy Keesee wrote:My God.... people have died on Double Cross!!! Its the Eiger of Southern California, and needs to have the Bolts (that a caring climber installed for SAFETY) put back. gription.... I have seen the bodies, I have seen the injured, I have watched as the JOSAR dudes pull right up to the RESERVED parking spot that they keep right there for such dire emergencies. Stop the Deaths - NOW. And you know people have died on Toe Jam, too. The Old Woman is cursed I tell you and is pissed off.Guy is right - the bodies pile up faster than the meatwagons can remove them. The place smells of death. Should have called the formation The Grim Reaper. |
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""Brian probably means Nomad Ventures in the town of Twenty-nine Palms. |
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Thanks for all the input guys. I may pick up an extra BD #2 and #3 just to be safe. There's so many routes in the area that it's a bit overwhelming when looking here on MP and not really knowing the area too well. Keep the great comments and advice coming! Cheers! |
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The canyon with double dog leg has a 4 or 5 classics in your range. Its in the shade(at least it is in the winter) and the climbs are stellar. I would highly suggest renting or buying a guide. There is a ton of stuff there and mp generally has really bad approach descriptions Guy Keesee wrote:Stay away from Double Cross. That climb has kilt about 5 - 8 climbers.... It needs bolts for safety.Don't worry guy, looks someone just installed a few bolts to keep the body count down. If you are going to get on this, you probably can keep can keep your rack in the car just need a few draws. |
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Guy, Have people really died on toe jam?? |
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headead wrote:Guy, Have people really died on toe jam?? Got any info on what happened?They just dragged the bodies over from Doublecross to Toe Jam - all part of the cover-up. |