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Absence of Authority
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Castle Rock - North Spur
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Absence of Authority T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jesus and Einstein S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Milk Toast S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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No Climb for Old Men S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,108 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | David Tvedt on Apr 3, 2006 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
This route starts with a somewhat dirty but fun 5.9+ dihedral. After about 70' you reach a small roof where the real challenges start. Protect well before leaving the crack and launching up into devious thin face moves (crux) leading to a seam that protects only with very small gear (ie. RPs, etc). Finish by veering right on a horizontal crack that leads to the top anchors of Hairstyles and Attitudes.
Note: The start of the route has vegetation in the crack that can be climbed around. Please don't remove any more vegetation at the start of this climb.
Note: The start of the route has vegetation in the crack that can be climbed around. Please don't remove any more vegetation at the start of this climb.
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