fixe chains breaking and cracks
|
Climb trad, problem solved! |
|
WarthogARJ wrote: But in Europe if someone uses 304 for climbing anchors NOW they are an idiot. And close to being negligent. Perhaps criminally negligent if there's an accident as a result of its lesser corrosion resistance: it is VERY well known that 304 is not a suitable material for anchors in outdoor locations in Europe. I will stand as a witness pro bono except costs if anyone wants help if they are hurt by a 304 failure in Europe. AlanI would suggest that calling installers "idiots" for using certified equipment carrying the UIAA Safety Label and conforming to all the requirements ever issued by the UIAA in the various revisions of the standard is incompatible with a role in the UIAA. The term "idiots" would include numerous national federations, the members of the UIAA Safety Commision and the General Council who either install this equipment themselves or approved it´s certification. Furthermore suggesting that the use of this equipment may be criminally negligent and offering to support and assist legal action against members of the climbing community is utterly irreconcileable with acting as a national representative at the UIAA. |
|
WarthogARJ wrote: even if you use a "slave labour" concept and expect the bolter to work for free, that further dilutes the difference. And if you cost their time at minimum wage ($15/hour in USA) then the percent difference basically disappears.So you Euros pay your bolters at least $15/hour? Who is paying them? |
|
20 kN wrote: Yes, it's acceptable because those 1 or 2 out of 1,000 are not complete equipment failures, they are failures to meet the 3-sigma rating. If the 3-sigma rating of a bolt is 25kN, a sample that falls outside of that range is still very likely going to hold 20kN or more. While that's lower than the rating, it's still almost twice the strength of a full size cam and more than adequate to catch any whipper anytime.Also you shouldn't be relying on just one bolt to keep you off the ground... |
|
Jim Titt wrote: I would suggest that calling installers "idiots" for using certified equipment carrying the UIAA Safety Label and conforming to all the requirements ever issued by the UIAA in the various revisions of the standard is incompatible with a role in the UIAA. The term "idiots" would include numerous national federations, the members of the UIAA Safety Commision and the General Council who either install this equipment themselves or approved it´s certification. Furthermore suggesting that the use of this equipment may be criminally negligent and offering to support and assist legal action against members of the climbing community is utterly irreconcileable with acting as a national representative at the UIAA.It does seem kind of crazy that the guy who helps create the standards says he will help sue if you get hurt using something that meets the standards. If 304 is soo bad, why not change the standards? |
|
We often depend upon a single bolt to prevent injury and potentually death. At least the first bolt of a climb and often the first 2-3 bolts of a climb at spaced such that blowing the clip of the next bolt will result in a ground fall if the previous bolt fails. I wish people would quit saying that they never depend upon a single piece; it simply is not true. |
|
I keep seeing 20-30% more for 316 over 304. Maybe the case if ordering bolts in Europe, but I took a quick look at Hilti site (for Canada): |
|
Harald Swen wrote:I'm offering the best bolts money can buy for free, no strings attached. But nobody's interested.Did I miss something? I'd love about 100 SS bolts... got a post up right now looking for some! |
|
David Gibbs wrote:I keep seeing 20-30% more for 316 over 304. Maybe the case if ordering bolts in Europe, but I took a quick look at Hilti site (for Canada): 50 SS 304 3/8"x3" - $245 50 SS 316 3/8"x3" - $640 That's a pretty big price difference.Maybe he just missed a 0... 30% versus %300? |
|
50 SS 304 3/8"x3.5" - $199!!! |
|
dnoB ekiM wrote: FYI: 12 LB torque on those. Pretty easy to over torque the 3/8's Stainless Powers.I was told 25-40lbs of torque for those SS ones. Helps ensure they don't slip out of the crack. |
|
Morgan Patterson wrote:50 SS 304 3/8"x3.5" - $199!!! fastenmsc.com/p-99688-power…Given that appears to be a US site, and with a 1.3 exchange rate, $200 us -> $260 CDN. Not a better price than what I quoted from the Hilti site. |
|
dnoB ekiM wrote: I've been trolled.I know my way around the block... |
|
For sure, that map of the vast area affected by high corrosive atmosphere is eye opening. |
|
David Gibbs wrote: Given that appears to be a US site, and with a 1.3 exchange rate, $200 us -> $260 CDN. Not a better price than what I quoted from the Hilti site.Gibbs... you're throwing Canadia curve balls with that exchange rate speak! |
|
David Gibbs wrote:I keep seeing 20-30% more for 316 over 304. Maybe the case if ordering bolts in Europe, but I took a quick look at Hilti site (for Canada): 50 SS 304 3/8"x3" - $245 50 SS 316 3/8"x3" - $640 That's a pretty big price difference.As of last week the price difference for 10mm round stock was +21.7% for 316 over 304. Depending on how the product is manufactured the end premium can be between 5% to 30% for simple objects or considerably more as I stated above. |
|
Do they even make 5 piece bolts in 316? |
|
"The failure analysis as done by a 3rd party metallurgical company in Spain: it wasn't done in house. |
|
Morgan Patterson wrote:Do they even make 5 piece bolts in 316?No. |
|
Hi, |