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Mild sprained ankle and crack climbing

Original Post
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I rolled my ankle over a week ago, not too bad. Was able to continue trail running for another 10min back to the car with only minor pain. The swelling only lasted for 3 days and face climbing/hiking seems okay. I'm still having trouble jamming that foot and as life would have it, I begin a trip to Yosemite today.

Aside from rest, which seems unlikely, what can I do to allow me to climb cracks? I plan to try to use face holds whenever possible and place gear while standing on my good foot

lozo bozo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 30
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

It did, thanks very much

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

I've had good luck with a thin elastic ankle brace. Something thin enough to fit inside a climbing shoe, and stretchy enough to give a little compression. This company has a good range of products: futuro-usa.com/3M/en_US/Fut…

VanessaK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

These worked like a charm for my foot:

Ankle Sprain Products

My advice is to use the BFST Wrap before physical activity to get your blood flowing and prevent further injury. Then use the ColdCure Wrap when you get home to bring down any internal inflammation.

Chris Reyes · · Seattle, WA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 40

I did something similar, relatively minor sprain with some swelling. Was able to get on face and overhang relatively quickly.

Cracks were also a bit dicey for me. While a brace will definitely help, I found stretching and strengthening exercises to be the best. Writing the alphabet, using my resistance bands (gotta keep shoulders in check) and doing some balancing on pillow or blankets really helped it. For me it was a range of motion thing (something rest and bracing probably won't help).

Maybe give that a try if you haven't?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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