Gunks fall Labor day

On Labor Day just a few days ago it was looking like it was going to be a hot one, so my climbing partner and I decided to start early. We headed straight for Thin Slabs to get it done before the sun baked us up top. I was going to lead it for the first time, having only followed the climb once before a number of years ago. We wanted to do the direct start (5.7) and the challenging direct finish (5.7+). I made it through the first hard moves on P1 clean with good gear in and was feeling good. My buddy led P2 to the GT ledge and at that point it was getting hot. We looked at the direct finish for a while and decided to go for it. I got a good piece in under the roof and clipped the first 2 pins with long runners then backed down to the corner to rest. I did not clip the last pin since I heard it was sketchy and saw it was probably the weakest one. Once I was ready I went for it and made the moves all the way out to the end. Just as I brought my right foot up to finish the crux it slipped because I didn't get it on good enough, and my hand came off and I was swinging in space. We estimated it was about a 12 foot pendulum fall. With my feet out in front of me I braced for the impact into the wall at the end of the swing. My right foot hit first, I heard a pop and saw my ankle dislocate. I did not hit anything else. I knew right away my ankle was at least dislocated and probably broken since it was bent the wrong way at the joint. I got lowered to the ledge and got my shoe off and knew we were in for a minor epic. Fortunately my partner, Skip Thompson, kept a cool head and knew right away what to do. He found me a long stick and set me up for a lower on our 70m rope. As I was lowered I used the stick as a substitute for my right leg to keep my foot off the wall and to keep me in balance. Once on the ground we called 911 and asked for the rangers. Two women who happened to be climbing nearby came to assist as did another pair of climbers. One of the women was a surgical PA and the other a first responder. They took over until the rangers came and did a great job controlling the scene and keeping me calm.. The Mohonk Rangers came en force with Roger leading the crew. He assessed me and splinted my ankle then with the help of the other rangers and the 2 women climbers, they got me down to the carriage road, which was not easy since it was a long steep trail. I rode in the back of a pickup to the ambulance and was carted off to Poughkeepsie to the Mid Hudson Regional Med Ctr. There I was xrayed which showed a fracture/dislocation. The ER doctor sedated me and reduced the dislocation and casted my leg. I didn't feel a thing. They then packaged me into my car with crutches, a pillow and an Rx for pain meds. Skip drove me home back to CT and I saw my orthopedic surgeon, who took me to the OR the very next day to put in 3 screws. Apparently these fractures need to be fixed right away to preserve circulation to the bone so it can heal. Right now I'm in a cast with my leg elevated resting comfortably in my office! Yes I am at work. Very light day though
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This was a traumatic experience but overall everything went so smoothly its hard to believe. The people who helped is what made the difference. My partner first of all who kept a cool head and knew exactly what to do, then the climbers who helped out at the base of the climb. The 2 medically trained women climbers who helped tremendously and then Roger and his Rangers. From the ambulance medics to the nurses and doctors at the hospital, everyone helped to make this a positive experience. I would like to thank all of you for your kindness and your efforts to get me extricated and treated in such a timely and efficient manner. It's nice to know that climbers still take care of their own.

Not sure what I would have done differently except maybe place another cam further out on the traverse to limit my swing. It's not an easy place to stop and place gear. Maybe clipping the last pin would have helped. The good news is all the gear held and my injury is limited and I'll be back climbing again in a few months. Thanks again to all who took care of me. Maybe I'll see you out at the cliffs so I can thank you in person. Feel free to contact me.

Signed,
Paul Alberti
pwa703@gmail.com

Sick ankle, glad it wasn't worse- speedy recovery to yah

Damn man- Just a normal roof move in the Gunks... sucks that such a bad outcome can happen from something so seemingly innocuous. Sorry about your injury. I am coming off a broken wrist personally.

I always clip pins. I figure it can't hurt. If you have a chance to back them up, good- But if it's all you got, why the hell not.

Thanks for posting, I was curious about the Thin Slabs gear that was posted about on here. Hope you get it all back, and i hope the foot recovers well!

A good report and best wishes for a speedy recovery.

When you go back up there is a solid green alien size placement by the pins to give you a little more confidence.

Hey Paul. Thanks for posting up. We can all learn something from such reports. Best wishes for a complete and very rapid recovery.

Bill

Thanks for the good wishes and the beta

We got his gear back.

Good luck with your recovery and thanks for sharing! I would say the majority of people just clip those two pins and go for it, so this may be a good cautionary tale.

Thanks gunkiemike. Really appreciate your efforts to get my gear back

That's one gnarly-looking ankle! Sorry to hear you're out of commission for a while. Heal well!

I appreciate the honest detailed write up and wish you a smooth speedy recovery.