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Routes in Upper Darth Vader
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Blustery Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Danger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Frosted Flakes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pee Wee's Playhouse S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Squall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Three Easy Pieces S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Victim of Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Alan Cattabriga 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,067 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on May 24, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This route is listed in the guidebook but is almost never done. The guide gives it an X rating meaning you could die climbing it if you fall (or pull off the huge loose flake in this case). I finally got around to climbing it today and didn't feel it lived up to the hype as far as danger goes. It was however VERY enjoyable climbing, if a bit short. I'll give it an R rating for the hollow flake but if you can climb gently and place gear in the right spots you should be fine. I'm not recommending it for just anyone but if your likelihood of falling on a straight forward 10a is low and you like a bit of spice, go for it.
Just left of the start of 3 easy pieces, climb a corner with a good but tricky red camalot for pro. Move up to a nice ledge and contemplate the crux flake. I placed a couple finger size pieces close to where the fake connects to the rock where it felt pretty solid. Move up in to under cling locks and reach up to the top of the flake for edges that get better the more you move right. You can get good gear here and top it out.
Just left of the start of 3 easy pieces, climb a corner with a good but tricky red camalot for pro. Move up to a nice ledge and contemplate the crux flake. I placed a couple finger size pieces close to where the fake connects to the rock where it felt pretty solid. Move up in to under cling locks and reach up to the top of the flake for edges that get better the more you move right. You can get good gear here and top it out.
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