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Best (non-offwidth) splitter (or dihedral) 5.10s in the front range

Original Post
Andy.J.Stevens · · Morrison, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Looking to get some 5.10 crack mileage on gear. Climbing out of Golden. List your favorites.

Cindy · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 20

Only 5.9+ but Center Route on Cynical Pinnacle is full value crack climbing. Want something a tad harder do the first two original pitches of Wunches (sp?) just to the left, mostly 5.10+ climbing except the last couple of moves on the second pitch and 5.11. But be prepared for an awkward, rope-eating rap if you do that. Still, it can be done and all of it is very good climbing.

Cindy · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 20
  • meant "are 5.11"
Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30

Not too much out there, but I'd suggest Grand Course and Blind Faith in Eldo. Then link up Born Under Punches with upper half of Purple Haze. On the other hand, the Creek is less than 8h away ...

ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

Here's a few of the Eldo classics that might fit the bill:
- Handcracker Direct
- Blind Faith
- Darkness til Dawn (dihedral)
- 1st pitch of Outer Space (dihedral)
- Grand Course
- White Lightning
- Chockstone

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Forest Finish

Michael Butts · · Boulder, Co · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 560

I would be down to crush some 10's. PM if interested.

These are my favorite 5.10 days
Eldo west ridge link ups.
Over the hill
Emerald city
Chock stone
Xanadu
White lightning
5.10 crack
P1+p2 rincon

Redgarden link ups
Grand course
Darkness till dawn
Grandmothers challenge (awesomeness)
Green spur

Eldo link ups
Hand cracker
Rosy crucifixion
Blind faith. ( super fun day)

Outer space is the Best 10 IMO
Link that with March of dimes or blind faith. Fun day.
But seriously Outerspace. Is the best.

My favorites in Boulder canyon
Cosmosis
West crack and west face at bell buttress. Run a couple laps on each and you'll have a great day

Warm up on curving crack and comeback crack and then get psyched on athletes feat. I still haven't got the first two pitches clean on athletes feat. but fucking awesome nonetheless. I guess that's my project right now. At castle rock.

Lumpy ridge is amazing.
Fat city or J-crack and finish on cheap date on the Book. I actually just did cheap date this weekend and it is one of the best of all on this list IMO.

I would like to climb DAYS OF HEAVEN. In RMNP. 3 pitch 10. Looks to be my king line haha.

Any 10 in the Platte.

I'm psyched on .10's.
. Let's climb haha b

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Turkey Rocks has one of the best concentrations of 5.10 cracks in Colorado. A few weekends down there would be well spent if you want to improve your granite crack technique. It definately offers more in the way of pure jaming that the typical face-crack climbing in Eldo. Late fall is good at Turkey; it gets a lot of sun.

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

Don't forget about roadrunner on wall of the 90's in clear creek canyon. One of the best hand cracks I've been on in the front range. Quiver and quill and drumstick direct at turkey rocks are great also.

Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 40
Michael Butts wrote:I would be down to crush some 10's. PM if interested. These are my favorite 5.10 days Eldo west ridge link ups. Over the hill Emerald city Chock stone Xanadu White lightning 5.10 crack P1+p2 rincon Redgarden link ups Grand course Darkness till dawn Grandmothers challenge (awesomeness) Green spur Eldo link ups Hand cracker Rosy crucifixion Blind faith. ( super fun day) Outer space is the Best 10 IMO Link that with March of dimes or blind faith. Fun day. But seriously Outerspace. Is the best. My favorites in Boulder canyon Cosmosis West crack and west face at bell buttress. Run a couple laps on each and you'll have a great day Warm up on curving crack and comeback crack and then get psyched on athletes feat. I still haven't got the first two pitches clean on athletes feat. but fucking awesome nonetheless. I guess that's my project right now. At castle rock. Lumpy ridge is amazing. Fat city or J-crack and finish on cheap date on the Book. I actually just did cheap date this weekend and it is one of the best of all on this list IMO. I would like to climb DAYS OF HEAVEN. In RMNP. 3 pitch 10. Looks to be my king line haha. Any 10 in the Platte. I'm psyched on .10's. . Let's climb haha b
I heard Cheap Date protects really well with nuts???
Jonathan S · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 176

Rip Van Winkle, Sunshine Wall, Cathedral Spires.

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302

Loads of good stuff has been mentioned already, but I'll toss in a few more:

If you're already in Golden, you have to do The Short Tour (5.10-), at the Quarry Wall at North Table. A nice little climb, short and sweet, and fairly technical.

I Claudius at Shelf Road is (IMO) honestly only mid to hard 5.10. It gets a harder grade because it's a crack climb in a sport area. It could be argued that there is a 5.11a face move down low, but after that it's a sustained and excellent 5.10 splitter.

Don't get me wrong, it's by no means a crack climb, but the crux of Tagger (in Eldo) is a hand crack roof.

And it's a little outside of your requested range, but I just have to mention Roadrunner (5.11-) at Wall of the 90s (Clear Creek). If you can climb 5.10 crack, you can get up this. There are no really hard moves, it's just sustained 5.10.

Have fun (I'm jealous!)

GO

bert honea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 10

Fremont canyon and d. Tower.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

turkey rocks, cynical pinnacle, lumpy, vedauwoo.

Andy.J.Stevens · · Morrison, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Awesome. Thanks for the ideas everyone! The ticklist has been made.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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