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Am I going to be "that guy"

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Laramide Erogenous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 235

I'm looking to take a trip out to Zion for a big wall solo. I've never climbed a big wall, let alone soloed one. Through diligent reading (kirkpatrick, this forum, and any other book) I've pieced together some basic ideas. Last summer I did a 3 day course in WA that was basically aid climbing for dummies. I have also been trying to familiarize myself as much as possible practicing on some local crags. I am confident I can avoid killing or seriously maiming myself and others and while Id like to say I'm confident I can avoid major clusterfucks everything I have read has told me otherwise. Herein lies my question if I go out to Zion and have a go at organasm, spaceshot or moonlight buttress and it turns out to be a mess am I an asshole that has no business being out there ruining someone else's good time because I'm slower than shit and occupying space? (Maybe I'm already an asshole if I even have to ask?) I'd plan on going 9/20-9/24 or 9/28-10/05. From what I gather that's not quite prime season yet? And I would plan on climbing, or at least pretending to climb, on weekdays. Thanks for any of your input and I welcome and appreciate any ideas/suggestions tips as well.

Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

I think any time you do something reckless related to rock climbing, you are being an asshole. If you injure yourself, you're wasting a lot of money and time from the SAR folks, at the very least.

Reckless has a lot of gray area and subjectivity, of course. Personally, I'd call going solo on your first big wall climb, with nothing but a 3 day "how to aid climb" course, reckless. I'd never consider doing that without first doing some big wall climbing with a more experienced climber or with a guide.

Embarrassed to say · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 5

I'm curious...mainly because I'm thinking about the exact same thing, I just haven't made the jump on Andy K's soloing book and buying the silent partner...keep us posted, and I'm curious to see other responses.

Freddy Brewster · · Humboldt, Ca · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 40

just go for it. if someone wants to pass then let them. but who gives a shit what others think? if you don't commit sometime then you will never do a wall. just try not to a complete shit show and if it feels sketchy then bail.

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 650

Honestly, if you think you can do a good job of mitigating danger, and your main concern is a clusterfuck, I say go for it. But not without the stipulation that you stay away from the mega classics. I appreciate your concern for ruining others' good time, since some people seem to lack this. Nurture that inclination by staying far away from the classics until you're confident you can move efficiently.

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

Agreed with Shreddy. First come first serve. Take as long and be as big of a shit show as you can manage. Sounds like a great first big wall experience to me.

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

Go for it! I've basically learned to jumar on moonlight whilst soloing. Bring at least one, if not two purple link cams. Use adjustable daisies over a fido. I did it in under 12 hours, with only about 10 aid pitches of prior experience. I don't know how to rap the route with a single rope, I tried and shenanigans ensued. Pm me if you want more beta.

As for other parties. Let them pass and use that hour or whatever it takes to refuel and drink water

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

This could be an epic story. Let us know how and if it went!

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

I would guess that trying to do a solo aid of Moonlight during prime season as your first big wall is not a good idead. That route is a major free climbing test piece and people climb it in a day all the time (many times more than one party in a day).

Look into Touchstone Wall. That's a good first wall. My advice would be to skip the solo. Soloing is an advanced technique, as is wall climbing in general, and trying to learn the more advanced method of an already advanced climbing genera is setting yourself up. Do a few walls with a partner, then switch so soloing if you so wish. Another thing to consider is that Zion is not that forgiving to aid mistakes. I have seen people rip multiple pieces back to the belay and FF2 into the belay on a C1 pitch. The rock in Yosemite is much more suitable to questionable placements and mistakes IMO.

Last, if shit hits the fan when you're soloing and you get injured, you have no partner to help you. If you're past the half-way point of the rope and you whip and break your leg while dangling in space 700' up and no one is around, what are you going to do? Things to consider.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

"That guy" could be a dick or he could not be a dick.

Simply, to not be a dick, offer to work something out with whoever comes up the route behind you, try to make it work out to everyone's favor. Neither you nor they have any rights to the route, but you'll be remembered as that "cool guy who worked it out so that everyone ended up happy".

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

C'MON MAN. YER GONNA DIE.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

I'm with Shreddy and Morgan.

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

Why not find some other person you can do this adventure with? There's a pretty decent chance that someone else is in a similar boat to you and might help you along on this adventure.

Kyle Edmondson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 250

I would echo the comment that Moonlight is a poor choice, due to the number of free ascents. I am of the opinion that it is no longer an aid climb, having been forced to retreat when following an aid party. I hesitate to say one should not - it is not my place - but courtesy leads towards avoiding this wall for aid, especially when you are soloing, inexperienced, and expect to be slow.

Joe Prescott · · Berlin Germany · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 6

I was in almost the exact same situation as you about 15 years ago and had plans to solo Prodigal Sun. Last minute a super strong friend decided to join me and I am very glad he did. We did it in a long day without hauling/rapping/cleaning. My friend wasn't an aid climber either but super solid trad climber that French freed (or freed) his pitches very quickly. I was insanely slow even with a lot of practice at local crags and climbing for several years. If I had to haul rap clean I would have almost surely got into trouble or had to rap down. It would have taken days. Later that year I took a sport climber up Spaseshot and he just belayed/cleaned. Very long day. That turned out to be a good progression and tought me a lot. No cluster fucks either or pissed off parties. I had my systems dialed, but I was (still am) very slow, is I need to bring more provisions, which slows me down, and so on. Bring at least a belayer and see how it goes.
Joe

Sam Keller · · Mallorca, ES · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

I say go for it.

Stay away from Moonlight though. You would be that guy on the most popular line in the park.

As far as other routes. If people choose to get on a route after you they knew you are up there and they are making their own choice to climb below you.

I'm a Zion local and I would just courteously ask to pass in a good spot.

Zion is great aid climbing. My first aid climb was Prodigal Sun. Not great in winter cause it's all I. The shade, but it's a fun route.

Thing to consider. I did prodigal in one long day w a partner. My friend w more aid experience than me soloed it in 3 days.

I've see. Many people bail soloing due to the involved nature of soloing and the added complexity.

Don't be afraid to find a partner, unless that logistic difficulty is what you're looking for.

I will echo 20kn. Zion is unforgiving of mistakes. The park wants to kill you. Do you really want to be soloing?

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

YOU'RE GUNNA DIE!!!!!!!!
On a more helpful note, go for it any body who says it's risky is stupid high consequence yes, but risky? You will be fine providing you approach it as a calculated decision and you know your limits.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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